David Downie: Focaccia again, Santa Margherita Ligure

Published by Tuesday, April 19, 2011 Permalink 0
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by David Downie

Santa Margherita Ligure is as famous for its frescoed buildings as for its focaccia, but since you can’t eat frescos, even though they look downright edible, the focaccia is what most visitors rightly remember (and the fish and pesto and other delicacies too). Though Recco is better known for focaccia, Santa, as the locals call this seaside resort, nonetheless has two top focaccia-makers. Only an expert would notice the slight difference in the quantity of olive oil and salt, or the size of the moonscape craters on the surface (bigger in Recco). One of the two bakers here goes out of his way to make sure the dough is slightly softer in the center than it is around the edges. That’s why connoisseurs order their slices accordingly.

Good luck finding theses bakeries: Fiordiponti is on a back road, Via Ruffini, on the Portofino-end of town, near the arcaded square called Piazza Fratelli Bandiera. Pinamonti is closer to the train station, down an alley near the Lido Hotel.

You can find more great food and wine addresses for this region in my book Food Wine: Italian Riviera Genoa.

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