by Jonell Galloway

Cromesquis are back in fashion as an hors d’oeuvre. They are made with a salpicon wrapped in pig’s caul or slices of salt pork, then dipped in batter and deep-fried to make a croquette.

Contemporary chefs like to make the salpicon a little runny so that when you bite into the croquette, the liquid squirts into your mouth. I first ate the contemporary version of cromesquis at Ferran Adria’s El Bulli about 12 or 13 years ago.

Note: A salpicon consists of ingredients that are diced and bound with a sauce.