Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 15, 2011

Published by Monday, August 15, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Green beans, or string beans as they are usually called, must be done [boiled] till very tender — it takes nearly an hour and a half.Sarah Josepha Hale, The Good Housekeeper (1839)

Sarah Josepha Hale was an American writer and editor who wrote the nursery rhyme “Mary Had a Little Lamb.”  She is also known for campaigning for the creation of the Thanksgiving holiday, and Hale served as editor of Ladies’ Magazine from 1827-1836 and Godey’s Lady’s Book from 1837-1877.

Click here to listen to “Mary Had a Little Lamb.”

Frontispiece from issue 41 of Godey's Lady's B...

 

 

 

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Food Art: Puff Pastry Salad, food photography by SandeeA

Published by Monday, August 15, 2011 Permalink 0

These photos are by SandeeA, author of the column Food Play, and who runs a site called . SandeeA is never lacking ideas when it comes to playful, fun recipes. Click here to find the recipe for this salad in a puff pastry. It would be a great recipe to get your kids in the kitchen!

 

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 2, 2011

Published by Tuesday, August 2, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Frying gives cooks numerous ways of concealing what appeared the day before and in a pinch facilitates sudden demands, for it takes little more time to fry a four-pound carp than to boil an egg.–Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826) was a French gastronome, lawyer, magistrate and author who helped to develop the art of food writing. His most famous and influential book, The Physiology of Taste, consists of 8 volumes and was published in December of 1825, two months before his death at the age of 71. His influence is so significant that a cow’s milk cheese, a rum yeast cake, and a ring mold are all named after him. He is considered by many to have been the best food critic ever.

 

Plaque Brillat-Savarin, 11 rue des Filles-Sain...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, May 10, 2011

Published by Tuesday, May 10, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

The farmer in me also makes it hard for me to throw things away.  Everything on our farm used to used; my mother would always have one eye on the next meal. If you had a chicken, the carcass would be boiled up for soup. When the pig was killed the fat would be rendered down and kept in jars for frying.  If something gives you flavour, I find it very wasteful to throw it away.–Richard Corrigan, The Clatter of Forks and Knives

Richard Corrigan is an Irish chef born in Dublin but raised in Ballivor, County Meath. He earned a Michelin star in 1998 and has been awarded many other culinary accolades, including Outstanding London Chef at the London Restaurant Awards. He is the author of two cookbooks.

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How to Eat Gourmet on a College Student’s Budget

Published by Monday, March 14, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

When I was in college in the U.S. and France in the 70s and 80s, my kitchen was about the size of an American half-bath. I was already well on my way to gourmet snobbery, but since I couldn’t afford to eat in gourmet restaurants every night, I was forced to find novel ways to satisfy my taste buds.

Photo courtesy of Carlos Porto.

When I traveled, I was totally without shame. I went to the best French restaurants with my friends and brazenly ordered an assortment of dishes, which we proceeded to share. We would ask for extra eating utensils and split a dozen snails or a soufflé among three, or share a glass of expensive Bordeaux. Amazingly, the French waiters never once ran us out of the restaurant.

Where there is a will there is a way to eat gourmet every day, as the cliché goes. At home, I stocked up on pasta, and once a week I would go to the farmers market and load up on fresh vegetables and make a variation of Bolognese, which was about the only Italian sauce popular at the time.

But my Bolognese took a different twist every day and every week, depending on the vegetables in season and the meat on sale. Sometimes I used ground pork and beef; sometimes bacon. In the winter, I used more root vegetables; in the spring, peas. As commonplace as that may seem today, my friends were always in awe of my culinary skills, so that just encouraged me.

Today’s gourmet college student is not limited to Bolognese and has a wider choice of vegetables. There are a million things you can do with a package of pasta.

Start by stocking up. Pasta, olive oil, tomato paste and sauce, onions, garlic, Parmesan, Balsamic vinegar and a mixture of dried Italian herbs should always be plentiful in your larder.

If there’s a farmers market near you, make it a weekly pilgrimage. Buy seasonal, local vegetables and herbs if possible. They will taste better and contain more nutrients. If you see tomatoes and eggplants in December, turn the other way, no matter how tempting they may seem.

The first night after shopping, sauté a large batch of vegetables with garlic, onion and Italian herbs in olive oil, mix them with pasta and then sprinkle them with Parmesan. The second night, use the same vegetables, liven them up with a few drops of Balsamic vinegar, and serve them cold as a salad. The next day, add the tomato sauce and then a different vegetable every day, simmering it each time.  The last day, use it to make lasagne.

You can actually make a sauce that will last all week, varying it every night by adding different vegetables (or meat or beans) every day. The sauce will become better with time, rather like the “eternal pot” of the French, where they added different meats and vegetables every day to the same cauldron.

And you will have eaten gourmet every day of the week!

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The Rambling Epicure Voices

Published by Monday, February 7, 2011 Permalink 0

Food writer, Culinary Chemistry, The Rambling EpicureJenn Oliver writes our column Culinary Chemistry. She has a Ph.D. in science, where she explains the scientific aspects of what really goes on when you cook (the next Harold McGee?). She’s been running a gluten-free blog, Jenn Cuisine, since 2008 and her kitchen is more like a laboratory than a kitchen. She’s focuses her chemical calculations and experiments on figuring out how to make traditionally glutinous food gluten-free.

Esmaa Self writes the Wild Woman on Feral Acres column. She lives on a small farm in Colorado where she employs organic and sustainable methods to grow fruits, vegetables and herbs, raise chickens, bees and fish and where she routinely turns out imaginative, healthy, guilt-free meals from scratch. One of her numerous blogs recounts her farming adventures: Backyard Eggs. She also writes novels and contributes to numerous organic farming and green publications, and runs a sustainable living site, Homeostasis.

Simon de Swaan is Food and Beverage Director at the Four Seasons hotel in New York City. He studied at the Culinary Institute of America and has an incredible collection of antique cookbooks and books about food and eating, from which he often posts interesting and unusual quotes. In his column Simon Says, he gives us daily food quotes from his tomes.

Jean-Philippe de Tonnac is an essayist, editor and journalist. He directed the special editions of the Nouvel Observateur for almost ten years and and has published twenty books. As preparation for publication of his Universal Dictionary of Bread (Dictionnaire universel du pain, Bouquins Laffont, 2010), he obtained a baker’s certificate (CAP) at the Ecole de Boulangerie et Pâtisserie de Paris in 2007, and traveled worldwide to countries where bread held a particular cultural significance.

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