David Downie: World’s Best Tortellini in Paris?

Published by Wednesday, February 2, 2011 Permalink 0

by Pellegrino Artusi’

The other night, for our collective birthdays – three of us – our dear friend Daniela X (she is modest and does not wish to be identified) made classic tortellini alla bolognese in brodo. Anyone who has been to Bologna, Parma, Modena or the other great-eating-cities in the Emilia region, will know the authentic item.

Tortellini are a variety of navel-sized (and shaped) filled pasta — see the photo of Daniela’s tortellini, courtesy Kimmo Pasanen. They’re cooked in a sumptuous broth made from several types of meat (usually chicken or capon, veal, and, optionally, cotechino), and served in the broth, period. Purists don’t even sprinkle them with grated Parmigiano. But that may be going too far.

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American Bomb, Focaccia al Formaggio and Fascists

Published by Thursday, January 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie, just back from the Italian Riviera, an opinion piece

There’s a reason “Wreck-Oh!” is the irreverent nickname for Recco, the Italian Riviera’s self-styled “culinary capital” and probable birthplace of the cheese-filled delicacy focaccia con formaggio.

This once-charming seaside village was flattened by RAF and USAF bombers in an 8-month period from summer 1943 to spring 1944. The goal: blow up the railroad viaduct spanning the Recco River. The Allies ran 20 bombing raids on Recco, a small place, smaller than an American shopping mall. The effects were devastating. Only a few buildings — and the railway viaduct — were left standing. Hundreds of people died.

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Welcome to the Borscht Belt, exploring the “fundamental interconnectedness” of all things food

Published by Thursday, January 20, 2011 Permalink 0

by Shelly Butcher

Like many people with an interest in food, I am forever buying cookbooks. Packages from Amazon, Abebooks and Alibris make me giddy.

Photos by Adolfo Delci. They depict Jewish women of Pitigliano (Machlin's hometown) preparing matza.

It’s not the anticipation that excites me — I know what the package contains as I’ve ordered it myself. Rather, it’s the world contained within each book that sparks my curiosity — recipes I hadn’t imagined, food traditions from the “old country,” combinations of flavors and ingredients at once foreign and yet faintly familiar.

My most recent acquisition is as dear to me as an old friend. I could hardly contain myself as I ripped open the cardboard packaging and removed the delicate white tissue paper that wrapped The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews, by Edda Servi Machlin.

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