David Downie: Genoa’s Port and Medieval Backstreets

Published by Thursday, November 3, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie

The port city by definition, Genoa was made to be seen from the Mediterranean and entered by sea. If you arrive by plane, train, bus or car you miss the full effect. The best way to counter this is to take a ferry boat ride from the harbor, or arrive by cruise ship. The second best way is to walk from Porto Antico — the old harbor — to the end of the piers or the Lanterna, a lighthouse that’s about 800 years old.

Look back at old Genoa and be amazed.

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David Downie: Gallette, Italian Riviera Sea Biscuits

Published by Tuesday, September 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie

gallette del marinaio, sea biscuits, panificio maccarini

Everyone knows about the focaccia of Genoa and the Italian Riviera. But who remembers the region’s hardtack?

Sea biscuits: those hard, dry crackers that sailors would take with them on long journeys, because normal bread got moldy within days?
In Italian, sea biscuits are called “gallette.” The same word is used for the surf-worn, flattened stones you find on beaches. That’s because sea biscuits look very much like those stones, with pock marks.

There used to be hundreds of bakeries up and down the coast of Italy, and in America too, that baked sea biscuits. Now only a handful continue the tradition, most of them in Liguria, and only one makes gallette in the old-fashioned way, meaning the way they were made in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

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Rosa’s Musings: The Last Of The Summer Days Have Arrived, Indulge In Tomatoes while You Still Can

Published by Wednesday, September 14, 2011 Permalink 0

by Rosa Mayland

Spontaneous Cuisine: Raw Tomato Sauce

 

I don’t know if you have the same uncomfortable feeling as I, but I have the impression this year is flying by, and that we are more than ever racing against time, without being able to get a grip on the present moment or connect with the now. It is insane and quite confusing…

As incredible and shocking as it might seem, September has already arrived and so has autumn (and by the way, just in case you have already got the creeps, we are dangerously approaching Christmas – only 3 1/2 months to go before the ludicrous craze!). Even if you try “lying” to yourself, you cannot do anything other than confirm that the hot season is over and the slow decline of nature is taking its toll. As sad as it might sound, we have no other choice than to bid goodbye to the joys of summer and to the delightful sensation of lightness as well as worry-free days, it is a harbinger for the cold, dark, gloomy days that gently weasel their way into our lives. All those changes are real, visible and can be perceived very clearly.

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News from David Downie: Paris, Paris on 3QD and The Little Book That Could

Published by Monday, August 8, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie

Writer-chef-explorer extraordinaire Elatia Harris — no relation to my wife Alison Harris — interviewed me for a great website I did not formerly know, the 3 Quarks Daily.

It’s always jarring to be on the other side of the mike — or keyboard. I’ve conducted hundreds of interviews over the last 20-odd years. I’ve given a few, too. Of them, this is outstandingly good (not because I’m such a fascinating person, but because Elatia is such a good interviewer and writer).

Here’s the opening paragraph:

In 1986, San Francisco-born David Downie, a scholar and multilingual translator, moved to Paris, into a real garret — a maid’s room, in fact — to write himself into another way of life. Fresh from Milan, his marriage to a Milanese finished, he was still young enough for years more of getting it right. A quarter century later, his authority on matters Parisian is acknowledged by Jan Morris, Diane Johnson, and Mavis Gallant, to name only a few illustrious admirers.

Happily the interview is also about Alison and includes many fine photos from Rome, Paris and elsewhere.

Photos such as this one:

Much to my surprise and delight, The New Yorker picked up the interview. The power of new media is startling.

Speaking of which, Paris, Paris is a surprise bestseller. It was released on April 5 and in under four months has gone through four print runs… This is astonishing, given the publicity budget (budget? what budget?) and the not-dumbed-down nature of the book.

Thanks to all of you for buying so many copies, and telling your friends! Merci mille fois…

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David Downie: Feature Article on Emilia in The Italy Issue of this Month’s Bon Appetit magazine.

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie, France/Italy correspondent for The Rambling Epicure

Never a dull moment: I’m packing to leave Paris to go on book tour for Paris, Paris: Journey into the City of Light and Quiet Corners of Rome…and my lead feature for the May issue of Bon Appetit has already hit the stands… and the Internet. Here‘s an excerpt from The Italy Issue, as they are calling it. The story has many parts, with addresses and recipes listed separately.

The photo that doesn’t appear in the story: yours truly making tortellini at the big annual Sagra del Tortellino festival in Castelfranco-Emilia, near Bologna.

Buon appetito! Or perhaps it should be Bon Appetit?

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Looking for a restaurant for this weekend? Here’s your restaurant finder

Published by Friday, April 8, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Click here to go to iTaste in English.

http://www.itaste.com/?partner=138

The restaurant social network iTaste is the perfect place to look for a restaurant that suits your budget, taste, mood, etc. It allows you to choose your criteria and then generates a list that meets them. Over time, you can form a network of friends who have the same taste in food as you.

The network started by covering Switzerland, France, Belgium, Germany and Italy, but is swiftly spreading around the world.

According to founder Paul de la Rochefoucauld, it functions more or less like Wikipedia, allowing users to correct or add to existing information, or even add restaurants that are not yet listed. For the moment, it includes about 70,000 restaurants and has 40,000 network members.

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Food News: The Rambling Epicure and iTaste are teaming up

Published by Friday, March 11, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The new Michelin guide for France came out last week and has caused much stir in the restaurant world. Many think the old-fashioned European restaurant guides such as GaultMillau and Michelin — once had-to-haves for any restaurant lover — are antiquated and stagnant and can’t keep up with our changing times, that they are ancien régime, dinosaurs of times past.

This may well be. While restaurants come and go, some restaurant goers continue to yearn for the traditional cooking of the past, insisting that today’s young chefs don’t even know all the basic techniques of Cuisine, with a capital “C.” In 2010, UNESCO declared that the French gastronomic meal is part of French cultural heritage, defining specific rules and social occasions for partaking of it, as if it were a species in danger of extinction.

Others, such as food critic David Downie, in his article “Surveying the Paris food scene: a mecca again — but is it French?” on Gadling, and Jean-Philippe de Tonnac in his review of Au Revoir to All that: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine by Michael Steinberger, dare to question whether the French restaurant scene is still French, yet conclude that it doesn’t matter. Paris and France will always be the Elysian Fields of the food gods, no matter what their nationality, and innovation has never stopped.

What has changed is the way we eat — lighter — and the way we choose restaurants. In France and Switzerland, as in most places, the traditional restaurant guides are often outdated before they even go to print. Restaurants come and go, as do chefs. Establishments are no longer bastions of a certain type of cuisine by a certain chef. Because of this, on-line guides are more flexible and can change with the times. They can be updated daily or even hourly, unlike printed guides.

It is for this reason that The Rambling Epicure is partnering with iTaste, a Swiss-based restaurant social network, which is quickly spreading its antennae all over Europe. iTaste refers to itself as “the food critics’ social network” and “the web’s gourmet word of mouth network.”

The beauty of iTaste is that you can define your tastes in restaurants, read reviews of user-critics with similar taste, and follow their reviews on a regular basis, just as you do with any social network.

Their argument is that Google is convenient, but a human search engine is even better. In the iTaste communitiy, each iTaster becomes a food critic and shares his or her reviews with their contacts and followers.

iTaste was founded by Paul de la Rochefauld in Geneva, Switzerland, and has slowly been spreading its wings to the rest of Europe, including France, Germany, Italy and Belgium. It is in French, English and German. Since it gives you the possibility of entering a location and a restaurant, its possibilities are endless. You can even be the first one to start by entering your favorite restaurant in your home country. See you there!

Click here to go to iTaste.




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Switzerland has its own AOCs!

Published by Sunday, February 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

When it comes to wine and food, a name is not just a name

Switzerland has had AOCs for a while now, but on 14 January 2010, the Swiss federal agriculture office, OFAG, published an official bulletin containing a list of approximately 800 appellations of origin and geographical indications, roughly the equivalent of the French Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC). These were voted in in the context of a reciprocal agreement with the EU, and are to be protected and respected throughout the EU.

GruyereAOC-Switzerland-the rambling epicure-jonell galloway-genevalunch-cheese

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