A Literary Culinary Journal
by Jonell Galloway
This egg-free quark chocolate mousse recipe was developed by Maison Cupcake, but the use of quark cheese is so incredibly Swiss, I thought I should list it as a “Swiss recipe”. Next week Maison Cupcake will be developing a rhubarb mousse using quark, so keep your eye on this site.
Click here for recipe.
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This is a new list for sustainable living in Geneva and Lausanne and we’ll be adding to it and updating it on a regular basis. We will extend it to other French-speaking cities as we add to the list.
The city of Geneva is in the process of setting up free WiFi hotspots in and around Geneva, referred to as “GeSpots”. The project is a long-term project, but terminals are already available at the locations marked in green. Click here to see the map.
Free WiFi hotspots are available in the following locations in Lausanne: Saint-François, Riponne, Flon, Palud, Montbenon, Navigation, Port d’Ouchy and at the Service des Automobiles automobile registration and inspection office and the Blécherette aerodrome.
Sandrine Chapuis’ own mesclun, mixed greens from hills of Geneva
This site lists all the markets by day. A handy map is included with each listing so you can see where it is located in Geneva.
The Marchés Lausannois site lists the weekly markets:
Nettles
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by Jonell Galloway
I begin with the proposition that eating is an agricultural act. Eating ends the annual drama of the food economy that begins with planting and birth. Most eaters, however, are no longer aware that this is true. They think of food as an agricultural product, perhaps, but they do not think of themselves as participants in agriculture. They think of themselves as “consumers.”
—Wendell Berry, The Pleasures of Eating, Center for Ecoliteracy
The Times They are a-Changin’: Move Towards a Local Economy
After a few very difficult years, we are now only starting to talk about the importance, and even necessity, of maintaining and supporting a local economy. This is important not only to our health and taste buds, but also to our vital economic self-sufficiency. It is perfectly in line with the concept of Mindful Eating, and, by definition, involves local farmers as well as others who contribute to eating and drinking.
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Swiss Travel: Hotel Basel, an Excellent “Base” in Baselby Peter Heller White
Belying its unassuming 1970s exterior, the quality of the Hotel Basel‘s reception, the room (spacious and totally soundproof in our case, at least), and the food make this an excellent choice for enjoying and exploring the vibrant, fun city of Basel. A minute’s walk to the Marktplatz (Market Square) where you will find food stalls, the historic and lovely Rathaus (City Hall) and tram links to take you wherever you wish to go in and around the city (for free, since you only need to show your hotel reservation confirmation or free pass available at reception). We had a perfectly prepared four-course dinner in the Brasserie (there is also a restaurant that we didn’t try) and the breakfast, which is served in the barrel-vaulted basement, was copious and leisurely. All-in-all a most pleasant choice for a weekend break in Basel.
Basel City Hall or ” Rathaus Basel”
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Jonell Galloway
Switzerland
Skype telephone number: 1-270-859-1112
Skype name: jonell.galloway.white
E-mail: jonell@theramblingepicure.com
I started my culinary career in Paris in the early 80s. At the Sorbonne, where I studied French language and civilization, I asked for special authorization to write my thesis on the history of French cuisine, which was exceptionally granted. I later studied at both the Cordon Bleu and La Varenne, and studied wine in various locations all over France, including Steven Spurrier’s Académie du Vin. While in France, I developed and taught a method I called Spontaneous Cuisine, a market-based derivation of classic French cuisine; was a contributing editor for the English version of GaultMillau for France; and worked as a food translator and interpreter.
I have recently dedicated myself to a “literary” food website, The Rambling Epicure, joining the voices and visions of professional writers and photographers from around the world who promote a mindful, responsible approach to real food shopping, cooking, and eating, as well as food politics, safety, history, art, literature and philosophy. I invite you to browse the site to see the depth and professionalism of the coverage. http://theramblingepicure.com/
I am fluent in English (native tongue), French and Spanish, and have proficient skills in Italian and Portuguese. Having a scientific background, I thrive on investigative journalism and writing that requires in-depth research and documentation.
I currently divide my time between Switzerland and France, where I have a 1,000-year-old house in Chartres.
Other publications and projects I have worked on or participated in:
10Best / Travel Media Group at USA TODAY, Gannett Media
Travora Media
Le tour du monde en 80 pains/Around the World with 80 Breads, Orphie (Paris)
Serious Eats
Paris Voice
André Raboud: A Review of his Life’s Work, Edipresse (Switzerland)
Ma Cuisine Méditerranéenne/Small Plates of the Mediterranean Basin, inspired by Christophe Certain’s recipes
CityGuide Paris
GourmetLive
Geneva Lunch, Savouring Switzerland
The New York Times dining section
Athena Publications
Three Sisters’ Café, farm-to-table restaurant (Kentucky)
La Fourchette de Dimanche, RSR (Swiss French-speaking radio station)
Kentucky Poetry Review
Biography of Pierre Gagnaire, St-Etienne Tourist Bureau (France)
For more details about my professional path and education, please consult my résumé on LinkedIn at http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=33977805&trk=tab_pro
University of Kentucky, Lexington, Kentucky. Bachelor of Science Magna Cum Laude in Psychology. Honors: Magna Cum Laude, Phi Beta Kappa
University of Kentucky, Lexington, Kentucky. Graduate studies, psychology and literature.
Sorbonne, Paris, France. French language, literature and culture. Level A diploma.
L’Ecole du Cordon Bleu, Paris, France. “Grand chef” diploma.
La Varenne (French cooking), Paris, France. Non-diploma program.
L’Ecole du Louvre, Paris, France. Art, 17th-century to present. Special diploma for foreign students.
L’Academie du Vin, Paris, France. Wine tasting.
International Association of Culinary Professionals
Geneva Writers Group
Slow Food
Les Artisanes de la Vigne et du Vin (Swiss women wine producers association, for which I am ambassadress)
Websites: TheRamblingEpicure.com, TheRamblingEpicure.tumblr.com
Twitter @RamblingEpicure @SwissFoodies @JonellGalloway approximately +3,000 followers
Facebook: Jonell Galloway, The Rambling Epicure, Swiss Foodies, 4,400+ followers
Google+ 5,000 followers
Klout index usually between 61 and 63
Alexa rating The Rambling Epicure 1,200 in Switzerland (currently being rescanned). My main readership is Western Europe and the Anglophone world as well as the BRICS.
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From the archives
One should never think that everybody in Switzerland eats the same thing for Christmas dinner. With four languages and a multitude of “mini-cultures” tucked away its various mountain niches, and with a huge international population, Switzerland may well have more Christmas menus than any other country in the world.
In the French-speaking part of Switzerland, Geneva’s traditions are quite apart from the Vaud, for example, due to the late date Geneva finally decided to become part of Switzerland. Geneva traditions are often more influenced by their Savoyard and French neighbors, since they share about 100 km of border with them and only 5 km with canton Vaud.
Many Genevois eat a sausage specific to Geneva called longeole. Every region and many villages have their own sausage recipes, but the longeole is quite apart from the others for several reasons.
For one thing, it contains not only ground pork but also ground pork rind. This keeps it from drying out and gives it fuller flavor. The other, and quite major, difference is that that it is speckled with fennel seeds, probably a Savoyard influence.
Any good local butcher makes his own longeole. If not, it is advisable to find one who does. It’s Christmas, so you want to be certain it’s of good quality.
Longeole is easy to cook, but you must allow yourself enough time. It takes longer to cook than other cooking sausages because of the addition of the pork rind, which is harder than simple ground pork.
Use a soup pot tall enough to hold your sausage. Fill with water and bring water to boil. Add a touch of salt. Drop in sausage, lower heat, and let it simmer for 2 hours 45 minutes or 3 hours. The water should be just on the verge of boiling during the whole cooking time. It is then ready to slice and eat.
Some cooks prick the Longeole with a fork before cooking, but purist that I am, I think you risk losing some of the juices, which would take away from the flavor and make the sausage less succulent in the mouth. It is also important not to let it boil, because this too will dry it out.
Like everywhere, different families have different traditions, different favorites, but the most common accompaniments are potatoes cooked in white wine, lentil stew and cardoon gratin, all Geneva specialties as well.
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A Geneva Christmas: White Wine Potatoes RecipeFrom the archives
In A Geneva Christmas: Longeole sausage, I think I got your mouth watering talking about longeole, or fennel seed sausage. But did you see the potatoes in the photo? That’s THE essential side dish: potatoes cooked in broth and white wine.
I translated and adapted this recipe from A la mode de chez nous, Plaisirs de la table romande, a book on cooking in French-speaking Switzerland, by M. Vidoudez and J. Grangier.
Fennel-flavored Longeole sausages for Christmas, made by Jacky Bula butcher in Geneva
Cooking notes: I use a Kuhn Rikon Durotherm to maintain the vitamins and decrease cooking time. This also allows you to use less liquid, which gives a more intense flavor. In this case, you would use just enough broth to cover the potatoes.
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From the archives
Cardoon gratin is a classic Geneva Christmas dish, but only brave souls should try to prepare them because they are prickly, and the preparation can be long and tedious. Many farmers markets in Switzerland now sell them prepared sous vide, in plastic vacuum-packed packages, which is probably the best option for those who don’t get a thrill out of getting a few pricks. In any case, it is important to schedule it carefully into your meal preparations, because it is time-consuming any way you go about it.
All these steps can be carried out while the cardoons are cooking. There are actually several ways of doing this. You can either make a Béchamel (white) sauce and sprinkle cheese on the cardoons before you put them in the oven, or you can make a Mornay (cheese) sauce and pour it on the cooked cardoons before putting in the oven to brown. I think it’s tastier to make a Mornay sauce, and then sprinkle a bit of cheese on the top before putting it in the oven. Here’s my recipe.
Click here for British/American/metric recipe converter
Approximately 1 kg of cardoons 30 g of butter 1 tablespoon of flour 2.5 dl of whole milk 1 dl of cream 50 g of cheese, type Gruyère or Swiss (see photo below), grated Lemon juice, freshly squeezed Salt and pepper to taste
Notes: It is important to use a hard, Swiss-type cheese. Cheddar cheese would have too strong of a taste. If you can’t find cardoons, the same recipe can be made with Swiss chard, thus eliminating the long, meticulous preparation. Simply cut them as for the cardoons and cook in chicken broth until tender, then follow the other steps in the recipe for making the gratin. Its texture is quite similar to that of cardoons.
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Meet Jonell Galloway, a freelance writer and editor specialized in French cuisine. 
