Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 24, 2011

Published by Sunday, April 24, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

“…there is a difficulty in bringing to life in one’s own kitchen the memories of gastronomic travels.  Most of us do not wish to eat at home as we do in restaurants, nor would we want to cook like expert chefs  every day even if we knew how.”–Narcisse Chamberlain and Narcissa G. Chamberlain, The Flavor of France in Recipes & Pictures

The Rambling Epicure. Editor, Jonell Galloway. Simon Says, Simon de Swaan

Narcisse Chamberlain was the daughter of cookbook writers Samuel and Narcissa G. Chamberlain. Her father, Samuel, was one of the founders of Gourmet Magazine, and along with his wife and daughter, teamed up to help make French food accessible to American homes in the 1950s and 60s.  Narcisse Chamberlain’s books and papers can be found at the Schlesinger Library at Harvard University.

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Passover: the “festival of the unleavened bread”

Published by Friday, April 22, 2011 Permalink 0

This article is currently being translated into English.

par Julien Darmon

Extrait du Dictionnaire Universel du Pain, publié par Bouquins, Robert Laffont

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Switzerland: In Geneva, no shortage of chocolate Easter bunnies

Published by Thursday, April 21, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

If you’re buying gifts for adults, you may want to steer away from the bunnies and eggs. The After the Rain spa offers chocolate baths and wraps followed by a Turkish bath for couples. All year long, Gilles Desplanches’ chocolate bar proffers up rich hot chocolate that can rival Angelina’s in Paris, as well as cold chocolate. There’s a flavor for everyone because the choice is large: salted-butter caramel, white nougat, wild mint, coconut, amaretto, Cayenne pepper and Tabasco, orange and cinnamon. We’re not talking about powdered cocoa to which you add hot water, but the “black gold” variety.

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 21, 2011

Published by Thursday, April 21, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Grimod de la Reynière drank Swiss absinthe with foie gras, but warned: . . . nothing surpasses an excellent pâté de foie gras: they have killed more gourmands than the plague.–Ben Schott, Schott’s Food & Drink Miscellany

Ben Schott, born in 1974, is an author and curator of knowledge.  He can be found on his own website and on twitter @benschott.

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The Revolution of French Bread Baking (part 2)

Published by Wednesday, April 20, 2011 Permalink 0

Dictionnaire Universel du Painby Jean-Philippe de Tonnac

translated and adapted by Jonell Galloway

Cliquez ici pour la version française

Franck Debieu, a guiding light in the French bread revolution?

French bread baking is quietly but surely undergoing a revolution. It is adapting to today’s changing world. And like the European Renaissance, it is, surprisingly, rediscovering its origins, its long history of tradition, and reinventing them in light of scientific discoveries and expertise, which have allowed bakers to know more about the wheat, leavening, salt and water they use to produce their works of art. They are trying to revitalize their production and sales teams. L’Etoile du Berger bakery in Sceaux, just south of Paris, is unquestionably the greatest innovator in this revitalization.

Franck Debieu, the mastermind behind l’Etoile du Berger, looks as if he just stepped out of a Fragonard painting. The mildest of manner, matched with the strictest of standards. “Matchmaking” is his obsession. This business-minded bread baker is brimming with resourcefulness. His intelligence covers all territories: from the most basic raw materials to sensitivity to the human element. This discerning approach to bread baking certainly has its place in a French society totally caught up in a phase of decomposition and recomposition. Intuitiveness, audacity, business sense: all necessary to confront the task at hand.

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 20, 2011

Published by Wednesday, April 20, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

I cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food. –William Claude Dukenfield

William Claude Dukenfield (January 29, 1880 – December 25, 1946), better known as “W. C. Fields,” was an American comedian, actor, juggler and writer. He first made his fame in Vaudeville, and later in Hollywood. He carefully crafted his image as a boozer always ready to come out with a wise crack.

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David Downie: Focaccia again, Santa Margherita Ligure

Published by Tuesday, April 19, 2011 Permalink 0
by David Downie

Santa Margherita Ligure is as famous for its frescoed buildings as for its focaccia, but since you can’t eat frescos, even though they look downright edible, the focaccia is what most visitors rightly remember (and the fish and pesto and other delicacies too). Though Recco is better known for focaccia, Santa, as the locals call this seaside resort, nonetheless has two top focaccia-makers. Only an expert would notice the slight difference in the quantity of olive oil and salt, or the size of the moonscape craters on the surface (bigger in Recco). One of the two bakers here goes out of his way to make sure the dough is slightly softer in the center than it is around the edges. That’s why connoisseurs order their slices accordingly.

Good luck finding theses bakeries: Fiordiponti is on a back road, Via Ruffini, on the Portofino-end of town, near the arcaded square called Piazza Fratelli Bandiera. Pinamonti is closer to the train station, down an alley near the Lido Hotel.

You can find more great food and wine addresses for this region in my book Food Wine: Italian Riviera Genoa.

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 19, 2011

Published by Tuesday, April 19, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

The West Wasn’t Won on Salad.–North Dakota Beef Council, slogan to promote beef.


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News Flash: First reaction to Ell Bulli not being in San Pelligrino’s Top 50 Restaurants in the World

Published by Monday, April 18, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

So El Bulli is not in the top 50. People’s tastes change. That doesn’t make El Bulli bad; it was not included in the list simply because it is closing.

I’ll always remember that magic moment, so many years ago, when I first drove over the dirt track in the hills above Rosas to get to this little bistrot Michel Trama had told me about. I was enthralled, and that moment will remain with me forever. My tastes change, all our tastes change. We have moved on, going more toward a regional, traditional cuisine, much in the spirit of Slow Food, more in sync with the world’s needs, but that magic moment will always remain.

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Spontaneous Cuisine: Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote, It’s in Season!

Published by Monday, April 18, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Recipe: Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote

I always get really excited when the strawberries and rhubarb come on the market. For me it’s literally like “breaking news.” They’re really the first local fruit.

 

Photo courtesy of Happy Hoarfrost.

One of my favorite dishes is strawberry-rhubarb compote. It’s healthy, full of fiber and vitamins; it’s also versatile and can be used in many ways.

In addition, it’s about as easy as you can get.

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