Rosa’s Musings: My Swiss Grandmother’s Cooking: the Deep Roots, Bonds and Nostalgia of Food

Published by Tuesday, June 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by Rosa Mayland

My Swiss Grandmother and Her Glorious Cuisine

“As a grandmother of six, I believe that it is crucial that we make time to pass on our recipes, cooking and growing skills and other crafts to our grandchildren.”— Darina Allen, president of Slow Food Ireland

Grandmothers link us to our culinary heritage

In our modern world, most women choose or have to work, and countless couples don’t have the time or energy to become kitchen bees. Many people prefer buying prepackaged food and don’t see any point in spending their free time preparing homemade snacks. The majority of 21st-century grandmothers hail from a generation of females who cut themselves off from old traditions, therefore nowadays, very few kids are lucky enough to have grandmothers* who cook or enjoy cooking, and who are able to share their family’s culinary legacy with their grandchildren.

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La Perle: A Pearl of a Middle Eastern Pastry Shop in the Heart of Geneva

Published by Wednesday, May 4, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

A new Middle Eastern pastry shop has opened in Pâquis, right in the heart of Geneva. Their base is in Paris in the 18th arrondissement at La Rose de Tunis.

The Achech family have been making pastries for they can’t quite remember how many generations. They come from the Tunisian village of Ghomrassen, known for its pastries, thanks to the almond trees and other ingredients used in Middle Eastern pastries that thrive in its soil. It is thanks to this heritage and carefully kept-secret family recipes they have been collecting for generations that they produce the most delicate Middle Eastern pastries I have ever tasted.

Tunisian baklava, Moroccan baklava, Turkish baklava. Pure almond paste, pistachios, rose water. The perfumes of the Orient are all there, in the pastries and in the flowery, nutty wafts you experience as you stroll through the tiny shop. Pastries are stacked artistically, like pièces montées, and can be bought individually or on a catering basis for weddings, receptions, banquets, etc.

The shop is filled with Middle Easterners in their finest attire. It is classy and impeccable in every way.

They also serve mint tea…the real stuff.

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MarketDay: Everything You Need to Know About Indian Mangoes

Published by Wednesday, April 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Indian Mangoes: Alphonso, Alphonso!

Indian mangoes are in season from March to May. They are the ugliest mangoes around, but for me, there is no question they are the best. Not surprising, since mangoes come from India in the first place. They have an almost spicy taste that nicely compliments the sweetness.

Indian mangoes may be the ugliest ones, but they are the tastiest!

How to choose a mango

Indian mangoes often look bruised and half-rotten compared to other varieties when in fact they are at their very best. All you have to do is feel them to check how ripe they are. They should be slightly soft and smell full and fruity.

I buy them by the carton in Geneva’s Boulevard Helvétique market, or from Indian supermarkets. It’s all right to buy some that are not quite ripe so that you can eat them over a period of several days, or use some of them in green mango recipes. Indian mangoes ripen better off the tree than other varieties.

Mango shelf life

Mangoes keep well in the refrigerator for a week and often even two. Don’t put them in plastic. Leave them loose in the fruit bin or in the carton if you’ve bought a whole carton.

If they’re not ripe enough, put them in a paper bag and leave them at room temperature until they’re ready, just like for avocados.

India is the largest producer of mangoes in the world, with 2,143,000 hectares harvested, according to the Wikipedia. Indians eat them both ripe and green, rather like papayas, and like papayas, they contain an enzyme that aids digestion.

A single mango can contain up to 40% of the fiber you need daily, and is full of antioxidants and potassium.

How to eat a mango

Mango as a fruit on its own

The “How to Eat a Mango” section on the freshmangoes site explains step by step with illustrations for cutting and eating.

Mango as an accompaniment to a meal or a condiment

Mango chutney is good with fish, and makes a simple, healthy meal when served with Basmati rice. Green mango sauce is an easy way to liven up a piece of grilled meat or chicken. The freshmangoes site gives recipes of every imaginable type.

And of course, what is more delightful than a fresh, ripe mango to clean your palate and help you digest after a big meal.

If mangoes are your favorite fruit, and you think you can’t live without them (which is my case), Jonathan Allen’s article in the New York Times is a must.

The Buddha supposedly lived under a mango tree, and above all, this “king of fruits,” as it is often referred to, is associated with “abundance, joyousness and the carefree innocence of childhood,” says T.S. Satyan. I remember the first time I ever tasted mango juice, as they call it in India (it’s actually just puréed mango). I certainly felt enlightened!

A version of this article was originally published on GenevaLunch.

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Switzerland: In Geneva, no shortage of chocolate Easter bunnies

Published by Thursday, April 21, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

If you’re buying gifts for adults, you may want to steer away from the bunnies and eggs. The After the Rain spa offers chocolate baths and wraps followed by a Turkish bath for couples. All year long, Gilles Desplanches’ chocolate bar proffers up rich hot chocolate that can rival Angelina’s in Paris, as well as cold chocolate. There’s a flavor for everyone because the choice is large: salted-butter caramel, white nougat, wild mint, coconut, amaretto, Cayenne pepper and Tabasco, orange and cinnamon. We’re not talking about powdered cocoa to which you add hot water, but the “black gold” variety.

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MarketDay in Switzerland: April 13, 2011, a Documentary Slide Show

Published by Thursday, April 14, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

What’s in season: the farmers market in Switzerland this week, well, I cheat a little by slipping in the first Indian mangoes. I admit I can’t pass them up!

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Looking for a restaurant for this weekend? Here’s your restaurant finder

Published by Friday, April 8, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Click here to go to iTaste in English.

http://www.itaste.com/?partner=138

The restaurant social network iTaste is the perfect place to look for a restaurant that suits your budget, taste, mood, etc. It allows you to choose your criteria and then generates a list that meets them. Over time, you can form a network of friends who have the same taste in food as you.

The network started by covering Switzerland, France, Belgium, Germany and Italy, but is swiftly spreading around the world.

According to founder Paul de la Rochefoucauld, it functions more or less like Wikipedia, allowing users to correct or add to existing information, or even add restaurants that are not yet listed. For the moment, it includes about 70,000 restaurants and has 40,000 network members.

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Switzerland: MarketDay, April 6, 2011

Published by Wednesday, April 6, 2011 Permalink 0
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Switzerland: Geneva’s Le Jardin at Richemond Hotel welcomes in Spring with Asparagus Tasting Menu

Published by Monday, April 4, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Roberto Benvegnù, head chef at the Le Jardin restaurant at Le Richemond in Geneva, Switzerland, is celebrating the rites of spring with an impressive menu centered on asparagus, the most glorious of spring’s green vegetables, from April 1 to 10, 2011.

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iTaste and the world: find restaurants in London and Australia!

Published by Monday, March 14, 2011 Permalink 0

Switzerland may be tiny, but we have the world at our fingertips. The iTaste restaurant finder and social network started here, and is quickly spreading all over the world.

Click here to find a restaurant to meet every budget and taste in Australia and in Australia, for example.

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Food News: The Rambling Epicure and iTaste are teaming up

Published by Friday, March 11, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The new Michelin guide for France came out last week and has caused much stir in the restaurant world. Many think the old-fashioned European restaurant guides such as GaultMillau and Michelin — once had-to-haves for any restaurant lover — are antiquated and stagnant and can’t keep up with our changing times, that they are ancien régime, dinosaurs of times past.

This may well be. While restaurants come and go, some restaurant goers continue to yearn for the traditional cooking of the past, insisting that today’s young chefs don’t even know all the basic techniques of Cuisine, with a capital “C.” In 2010, UNESCO declared that the French gastronomic meal is part of French cultural heritage, defining specific rules and social occasions for partaking of it, as if it were a species in danger of extinction.

Others, such as food critic David Downie, in his article “Surveying the Paris food scene: a mecca again — but is it French?” on Gadling, and Jean-Philippe de Tonnac in his review of Au Revoir to All that: The Rise and Fall of French Cuisine by Michael Steinberger, dare to question whether the French restaurant scene is still French, yet conclude that it doesn’t matter. Paris and France will always be the Elysian Fields of the food gods, no matter what their nationality, and innovation has never stopped.

What has changed is the way we eat — lighter — and the way we choose restaurants. In France and Switzerland, as in most places, the traditional restaurant guides are often outdated before they even go to print. Restaurants come and go, as do chefs. Establishments are no longer bastions of a certain type of cuisine by a certain chef. Because of this, on-line guides are more flexible and can change with the times. They can be updated daily or even hourly, unlike printed guides.

It is for this reason that The Rambling Epicure is partnering with iTaste, a Swiss-based restaurant social network, which is quickly spreading its antennae all over Europe. iTaste refers to itself as “the food critics’ social network” and “the web’s gourmet word of mouth network.”

The beauty of iTaste is that you can define your tastes in restaurants, read reviews of user-critics with similar taste, and follow their reviews on a regular basis, just as you do with any social network.

Their argument is that Google is convenient, but a human search engine is even better. In the iTaste communitiy, each iTaster becomes a food critic and shares his or her reviews with their contacts and followers.

iTaste was founded by Paul de la Rochefauld in Geneva, Switzerland, and has slowly been spreading its wings to the rest of Europe, including France, Germany, Italy and Belgium. It is in French, English and German. Since it gives you the possibility of entering a location and a restaurant, its possibilities are endless. You can even be the first one to start by entering your favorite restaurant in your home country. See you there!

Click here to go to iTaste.




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