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David Downie: some restaurants to add to the Food Wine Burgundy guidebook
Change is the nature of the edibles-and-potables business everywhere. In Burgundy the region’s symbol is the snail. Change comes slowly. But the snail, like the tortoise, defeats the hare in the long run—or the long slide.
Cuppa? Change-resistance is part of the Gallic gene pool
The down-slide first: reliable fellow gourmets who scour Burgundy for great food and wine confirm that Amaryllis, the discovery of a few years back, is being spoiled by success. Michelin rewarded this unlikely candidate with a star after only a few years of operation, and crowds and crowns of laurels soon followed. So too did a precipitous move from funky quarters in an unattractive highway-side location in a nowhere village – part of the discovery experience – to fancy-dancy, flower-filled premises: the former home of stuffy-but-likeable Le Moulin de Martorey. This reconverted millhouse complex is at San Remy, near Chalon-sur-Saone. Now Amaryllis and its still-very-young chef-owner Cédric Burtin is becoming staid, in a beautiful, mainstream setting… another one-star Michelin place serving elaborately plated, microscopic portions of France’s notorious silly haute food.
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Food Art: Square deviled eggs, food photography by SandeeA
These photos are by SandeeA, author of the column Food Play, and who runs a site called here. SandeeA is never lacking ideas when it comes to playful, fun recipes. Click recipe to find the deviled eggs for this square Recipe: Classic Deviled Eggs. It would be a great recipe to get your kids in the kitchen!
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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 24, 2011
A hungry man is not a free man.–Adlai Stevenson II, 1952
Adlai Stevenson ran for the office of the Presidency in 1952 and 1956 against Dwight D. Eisenhower but lost the election both times. After his election to the White House, President Kennedy appointed Stevenson U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations, where his most famous moment occurred on October 25, 1962, during an emergency session of the U.N. Ambassador Stevenson was grandson of Adlai Stevenson I. who was Vice President under President Grover Cleveland from 1893 to 1897.
Click here to listen to Adlai Stevenson talking to the Soviet Ambassador to the U.N. at the time of the Cuban missile crisis.
Related articles
- Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 17, 2011
- Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 9, 2011
- Let my People GO!
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French Food Quote: Daily Food Quotes, August 23, 2011
The funeral home employee asked the widow if her husband were incinerated, would she rather it be in a French oven or an Italian oven. She replied: “Oh, a French oven! My husband couldn’t stand Italian food!–Alphonse Allais
L’employée des pompes funèbres demandait à la veuve si on brûlerait son mari qu’on devait incinérer, dans un four français ou un four italien : “Oh ! monsieur, le four français ! Mon mari ne pouvait pas sentir la cuisine italienne ! — Alphonse Allais
Related articles
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 10, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 16, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 15, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 18, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 22, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 5, 2011
- French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 4, 2011
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Food News Daily: August 23, 2011
Mainstream Anglo Media and Press
Happy 40th Birthday Chez Panisse: Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse built on simple success, San Francisco Chronicle
Fish kill cleanup a smelly job after Louisiana paper mill spill, Reuters
Japanese cuisine is loaded with anti-oxidants, vitamins and minerals, The Times of India
Preaching a Healthy Diet in the Deep-Fried Delta, The New York Times
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Sauce for Thought: Fish-flavored Funk for your Sauces – from the sunny parts of the world
by Alice DeLuca
In the early 1990’s we camped at Maleakahana State Park on the windward coast of Oahu Hawai’i. In the heat of the day I came upon a Hawaiian man who was busy reaching in to an ironwood tree to hang up a plastic grocery bag half-filled with something heavy, soft and squishy. It looked like what it was, a bag of guts, and I was somewhat apprehensive. He saw me watching him and offered politely that the bag’s contents included fish guts, salt, and chilies, and that after a few days of hanging there in the sun, rotting, the liquid would be drained off to use as sauce. I must have wrinkled up my nose, because he quickly expressed his opinion that only a Hawaiian would appreciate this sauce. He was hanging the bag in the tree to protect it from animals that would eat the rotting contents, which would ruin his planned feast. I regret not speaking with him about how he would use his sauce, but that opportunity is now lost in the mists of time.
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Rosa’s Musings: Swiss Sausage Salad, An Unforgettable Food Experience
by Rosa Mayland
This year, unlike all preceding years, I decided that I’d serve a Swiss menu for our National Day as I believe there is no better way to feel close to your roots than by cooking the foods that are a part of your identity. I also had the urge to share a traditional and summery Swiss recipe with you.
The date marks the death of the first German Emperor from the house of the Hapsburgs, the independence of Switzerland from the Austrian rulers, the alliance of the rural communes Schwytz, Uri and Unterwalden (central Alps) with a view to protecting themselves from outside attackers or anyone attempting to subject them, and the creation of the Federal Charter of 1291, a pact which ensured free trade and peace on the important mountain merchant routes.
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French Food Quote: Daily Food Quote, August 22, 2011
by Jonell Galloway
Thus it is Gastronomy, to tell the truth, which motivates the farmers, fineyardists, fishermen, hunters, and the great family of cooks, no matter under what names or qualifications they may disguise their part in the preparation of foods.–Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826)
The Physiology of Taste (1825)
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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, August 22, 2011
Those who have a profound indifference to the pleasures of the table are generally gloomy, charmless and unamiable.–Lucien Tendret
Lucien Tendret (1825-1896) was a French lawyer and gastronome, and great nephew of Brillat-Savarin.
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