‘Nduja: The Spicy and Spreadable Calabrian Treat

Published by Tuesday, March 13, 2012 Permalink 0

by Diana Zahuranec

‘Nduja (n-due-yah) is a spreadable, spicy, red pork meat that can be found everywhere in Calabria. Calabria is the southern Italian region that is the “toe” of the boot, so to speak. Nduja Nduja is used for sauces, bruschetta, or on anything that spreadable meat – spalmabile – would be tasty, including a spoon.

‘Nduja is produced from the throat of a pig, called the guanciale meat, and also the guanciale – stomach meat – and the back lardo, or fat. The lardo, when mixed with salt and added to the meat, takes on another name that has no exact English translation, called sugna. This meat and fat mix is ground with salt, local peperoncino (the Italian chili pepper), and absolutely nothing else. Not even nitrates, a common preservative added to most sausages and cured meats (linked to a higher risk in cancer), adulterate this all-natural ‘nduja. Salt, the extended maturation, and the fact that 30% of ‘nduja is peperoncino, which acts as a natural preservative, defy the need for synthetic additives.

 

Luigi Caccamo, left

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After the Cheese Making comes the Cheese Tasting

Published by Thursday, March 8, 2012 Permalink 0

by Diana Zahuranec

A black trash bag is tossed onto my desk. When I peer inside, four rounds of cheese stare up at me, one with a small wedge like a Pac-Man smile sliced out of it.

These raw cow’s milk cheeses are the result of the efforts of a group of students from the University of Gastronomic Sciences who, for one January day, were cheese mongers. After a year of visiting cheese producers, tasting cheese in class, and going  a little crazy at the biennial Slow Food Cheese 2011 fair, the next logical step was a DIY cheese-making party (see how here). Five and half weeks later, and the two big and two small rounds are set on the picnic table outside in the approaching spring’s warmth.

The knife squeaked when I pushed it through the small cheese with both hands. It definitely had grate-able potential. Tiny flecks of dark blue mold gathered on the bottom of the rind, but it was mostly creamy white and clean-looking. I sniffed the small cheese, and it smelled like butter. Tentatively biting a small piece, I tasted the saltiness first, and then a slight acidity cut through. It was crumbly and reminded one girl of pecorino cheese, nevermind that it’s cow’s milk, not sheep’s. It had a faint animal-like taste (normal enough in a cheese), but a weird, pungent aftertaste. A little salty overall, but not bad. A few friends thought otherwise. The most exciting thing about it was that we had made it.

 

 

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New column: Quelling Quitchen Qualamities

Published by Tuesday, March 6, 2012 Permalink 0

by The Quonstant Quonnoisseur

[This is the first in an occasional series of  short items by the QQ. Preventing kitchen mishaps, and adroitly recovering from any that do occur, will figure as an important topic in these updates.]

The problem: Overheating low-fat milk

The cause: Low-fat milk products cannot be boiled, unlike cream. Low-fat milk must be kept below 82° C or 180° F to avoid curdling or “breaking.” Using overheated low-fat milk that has curdled will  result in grainy ice cream, pudding or other dish.

The solution: To avoid this qualimity, invest in a clip-on thermometer and watch your low-fat milk like an anxious Dad with a pretty 19-year-old daughter.

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Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, February 29, 2012

Published by Wednesday, February 29, 2012 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan         

The art of using up leftovers is not to be considered as the summit of culinary achievement.–Larousse Gastronomique

The Larousse Gastronomique is an encyclopedia of gastronomy. The majority of the book is devoted to French cuisine, and contains recipes for French dishes as well as detailed, illustrated explanations of cooking techniques.

 

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How to Make Perfect Brownies like your Grandma’s

Published by Thursday, February 16, 2012 Permalink 0

How to Make Perfect Brownies like your Grandma’s

We love this beautifully illustrated recipe for making the perfect brownies. This is a keeper!

Brownies stacked on a plate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The explanations are better than a video because they let you go on with your work and refer back to the photos when you need to.

Click here to go to the recipe.

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Culinary Chemistry: Tempered Chocolate for Valentine’s

Published by Tuesday, February 14, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jenn Oliver

I love to make food creations as gifts for holidays, because I communicate through food (definitely better than through words). With words I find myself trying to be very precise, searching rather unsuccessfully for the most succinct way to express a thought. However, with cooking, I let loose a little more – I find the constraints and structures of recipes to actually encourage a bit of play. It’s one of the reasons why I have come to love gluten-free cooking, because the restriction in effect serves as an impetus for ingenuity; so amidst all of the rules surrounding the preparation of food, I find the freedom to express myself. Today, I tempered chocolate to tell my husband, “I love you” for Valentine’s.

Tempering chocolate is one of those techniques that is all about rules. It takes care, patience, and most of all, constant attention. A bit of a hassle if you don’t have a temperature controlled device – but, if dipping fruit or other chocolaty Valentine’s confections, there are definitely some advantages to using tempered chocolate. For one, the melting point of the chocolate is higher, so it doesn’t melt as easily, making it less messy to eat. Tempered chocolate is also prettier. It has a more glossy sheen to it, and snaps a bit when you break it apart. Besides aesthetics, tempered chocolate is less likely to bloom – the process where fat rises to the surface giving chocolate unattractive gray splotches.

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French Food Facts: What is a Salpicon?

Published by Wednesday, February 1, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

 

In classic French cuisine, the term “salpicon” refers to a mixture of one or more ingredients, diced, and then bound with a sauce.

English: Basil salmon terrine Français : Terri...

The salpicon is then used to fill pastry shells, fill pastry dough, make canapés — the list is endless.

They can also be used to make cromesquis or to stuff eggs or meat.

Typical examples are diced cucumbers, green asparagus seafood bound with mayonnaise, or leftover meats bound with white or brown sauce.

Today, the term is also used in Mexican cuisine.

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Ferran Adrià: La Fundación El Bulli will be a “Wikipedia” of haute cuisine

Published by Tuesday, January 31, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Ferran Adrià promises that the La Fundación El Bulli exhibition will cover the entire evolution of what was for 5 years the best restaurant in the world, El Bulli, in Roses in the Catalonia region of Spain. The foundation will serve as an encyclopedia similar to Wikipedia, in that it will cover all the groundbreaking techniques of El Bulli, now closed, as well as of haute cuisine around the world, all free of charge.

Link: Informe21

Català: Ferran Adrià a El Bulli. Deutsch: Ferr...

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Swiss Cookware: Unbeatable Quality and Made to Last a Lifetime

Published by Wednesday, December 21, 2011 Permalink 0
by Jonell Galloway

A Perfect Last-minute Christmas Gift for Foodlovers

High-quality Swiss cookware is a world away from supermarket style non-stick pans and traditional French copper.

Double-walled Durotherm pan.
Photo courtesy of Kuhn Rikon.

 

I lived in France for many years, and swore by my French copper pans and Godin gas stove. On arrival in Switzerland, where many homes (at least ours) were long ago converted to convection cookers, I longed for my Godin and shiny copper pans, all shaped to meet the special purpose they were made for.

But since my philosophy in life is to “go local”, whether I’m in the Sahara or Geneva, Switzerland, I immediately started doing my research, and was more than pleasantly surprised at Swiss engineering and design skills when it comes to modern cookware. Their cookware is not only made to last a lifetime; it is made to conserve vitamins and is ecological.

So to get to the end of this long-winded tale, I would suggest the following gifts for any cook, whether gourmet or amateur. They will thank you every time they use it, and they will most likely use it every day for just about the rest of their lives.

Swiss Diamond Cookware

I already gave Swiss Diamond a rave review in my post of 12 June 2009, The perfect non-stick frying pan: Swiss Diamond. I haven’t changed my mind. Because they are made of thick, cast aluminium, they sear meat and fish like an old-fashioned iron skillet, but using less fat. The non-stick finish is unbeatable, practically unscratchable, because it really is made with minuscule diamond chips!

Kuhn Rikon Durotherm Pans

Kuhn Rikon Durotherm heavy-duty, double-walled pans allow you to steam vegetables, meat or fish with no fat and little water. The water turns to steam and recirculates inside the pan, thus allowing you to maintain the vitamins and eat fat-free. Thanks to the double wall, the pans maintain the heat for 2 hours after cooking, so it’s great for cooking up dishes before guests arrive.

Durotherm pans are good for one-dish meals and cooking vegetables on an everyday basis. They also cook vegetables more quickly than boiling in a normal saucepan, and vegetables are never water-logged. The steam recirculation method prevents the vitamins from “leaking out” into the water.

I often steam my vegetables in a Durotherm, and then at the end carefully lay a piece of fish on top of the vegetables, making sure no water touches it, and put the lid on and let it steam-cook. It takes about 5 minutes for an average-size piece of cod, for example.

The Glories of Swiss Engineering

Swiss diamond cookware,
available at many butcher shops.

 

OK, I’ll end this lengthy tale with a summary, praising the glories of Swiss engineering, which applies not only to bridges, tunnels, and roads, but also to cookware.

It is true that these pans require a greater investment than the lighter weight, supermarket versions, but in the long run, they work out to be much cheaper.

When you scratch a frying pan with a regular PTFE non-stick coating, many health experts advise throwing them away. All it takes is a nick with a metal knife or fork, and it’s ready for the bin. Swiss Diamond coatings are of a much hardier sort.

Durotherm pans are also energy-saving and water-saving. They come with a made-to-size serving base that allows you to set them right on the table, and they are attractive enough to do just that.

In addition, all these pans are made of a much heavier metal, so not only do they cook better, they do not bend out of shape when put on high heat. They really are long-term investments, thus making them ecological as well, since you don’t have to continuously renew your cookware and throw out the old ones.

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Switzerland: About Cardoons, Geneva’s Favorite Winter Vegetable

Published by Monday, December 19, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Anyone living in Geneva really should know how to prepare cardoons, since it is Geneva’s favorite winter vegetable, and even has a right to an AOC, i.e. an official certified appellation, the “Geneva cardoon.” The problem is it is time-consuming and tedious, namely due to its prickly thistles.

Cardoons are one of Geneva’s favorite Christmas dishes, when it is most often served au gratin, but they are served in a variety of ways all winter long.

Viviane Bauquet Farre gives a wonderful explanation on how to prepare and blanch those tasty but thistly dears.

The Chapuis family, who does the Boulevard Hélvétique market in Geneva on Wednesday and Saturday, started preparing them and sealing them in vacuum packs a couple of years ago, and it has been so successful that everyone is following suit.

So if you’re brave enough, prepare them yourself. Otherwise, know you have an alternative. More and more sellers are copying the Chapuis and removing the thorns for you.

Originally published on GenevaLunch.

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