David Downie: Feature Article on Emilia in The Italy Issue of this Month’s Bon Appetit magazine.

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie, France/Italy correspondent for The Rambling Epicure

Never a dull moment: I’m packing to leave Paris to go on book tour for Paris, Paris: Journey into the City of Light and Quiet Corners of Rome…and my lead feature for the May issue of Bon Appetit has already hit the stands… and the Internet. Here‘s an excerpt from The Italy Issue, as they are calling it. The story has many parts, with addresses and recipes listed separately.

The photo that doesn’t appear in the story: yours truly making tortellini at the big annual Sagra del Tortellino festival in Castelfranco-Emilia, near Bologna.

Buon appetito! Or perhaps it should be Bon Appetit?

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Market Analysis: Organic Food from Supermarket vs. Straight from the Producer

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by Eric Burkel

Don’t allow the wool to be pulled over your eyes by supermarket organic food!

While discussing the issue of sustainable agriculture and the virtuous model of direct-channel (straight from the producer) with a friend the other day, she told me proudly that she usually buys organic food at her supermarket.

It made me think that most of us do the same and therefore we are content in the knowledge that we have most duly earned some sacrosanct “organic” brownie points!

However, it is a pact with the devil for dupes, when you boil it down. In a direct-channel model, whereby middlemen are cut out, the producer/breeder/grower gets decent compensation for his or her efforts. In a supermarket chain, the same “squeeze-the-supplier-till-he-squeals (or dies!)” modus operandi applies. How else can you explain that the major chains in France are offering organic deals at 1 € a day, for instance?

Organic growing is inherently risky and mechanically more expensive than intensively grown food. Weeds? They have to be pulled out by hand, not sprayed with the latest and greatest herbicide. Bugs? You can’t just spray the nasty freeloaders with a new-fangled pesticide.

When I asked our favourite organic Bordeaux wine-grower if he had sold out of his 2007 production (there was none to be found on his price list), he responded matter-of-factly: “We had a fungus that year and lost our whole crop.” You can imagine that it would have been soooooo much easier to spray some fungicide and make it all go away.

After factoring in such vagaries of organic farm life (without forgetting that yields are invariably lower on organic farms), someone needs to explain how in an ideal world you can have the cut-price organic prices we see in commercials all the time. Unless of course, someone is still getting shrift in the loop, as is often par for the course in our zero-sum world.

Some supermarket chains have understood the nuance and are trumpeting their programs to promote “local” procurement. This is a step in the right direction, no doubt.

So great, the chains have brought organic food to forefront our collective conscious and that must be goodness. But we must keep them on their toes to ensure that they are not just surfing the latest fad and using it their sole advantage, to sucker us once again.

Or better yet, go out of our way and support the direct-channel by joining a CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture) or buying directly from local producers.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 28, 2011

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Somehow we have fallen for a myth, the notion that food that isn’t fast prepared and fast cooked is inherently more difficult, more time consuming, more of a sweat, almost not worth the effort, or, at least, only worth the effort of the time.–Tamasin Day-Lewis, Good Tempered Food

Tamasin Day-Lewis is an English television chef, daughter of the poet laureate Cecil Day-Lewis and actress Jill Balcon, and sister of the actor Daniel Day-Lewis. For those who live in the UK , her cooking show can be watched on TV.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 27, 2011

Published by Wednesday, April 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

The world’s very first restaurant was probably some pre-historic boîte, settled in an intimate cave, we assume, which featured specialtiés de la maison that no cave lady could master.–Matty Simmons, Vice President Diners’ Club, Inc. The Diners’ Club Cookbook, Great Recipes from Great Restaurants, 1959

Matty Simmons was a newspaper reporter  at The New York World-Telegram and the New York Sun, and then Executive Vice President for Diner’s Club, the first credit card.

Click here to read about his perspective on the early days of credit cards.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 26, 2011

Published by Tuesday, April 26, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Cooking is a test without paper, the questions, or the answers, in the sense that you, the cook, are constantly trying to please a disparate bunch of people, who most often, being family, will not hold back on the criticism.–Tamasin Day-Lewis, Good Tempered Food

Tamasin Day-Lewis is an English television chef, daughter of the poet laureate Cecil Day-Lewis and actress Jill Balcon, and sister of the actor Daniel Day-Lewis.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Back to the Land: From City Living to Farming, the Young Farmers Movement

Published by Tuesday, April 26, 2011 Permalink 0

by Cozette Russell

Brookford Almanac:  A Documentary Film about a Year in the Life of First-Generation Farmers in the U.S.

I’m a filmmaker interested in the relationship between people and landscape, so in 2008 when I read an article in The New York Times about the trend of young people moving out of the city to farm, I knew this was a story I wanted to film. I wanted to find out why highly educated people would walk away from specific career paths to choose a life of farming. Why would they embrace the risks of a life of hard work that offers such little security?

My film, Brookford Almanac, a cinema verité documentary currently in production, tells the story of Luke and Catarina Mahoney and their lively farm apprentices who run Brookford Farm in Rollinsford, New Hampshire.

Luke and Catarina are first-generation farmers. They came to farming through their desire for a connection to the land, not from their family’s expectations. The Mahoneys have embraced the rewards and frustrations of a life centered on the small-scale production of local food. But without inherited land, a major obstacle for first-generation farmers, they must lease their farm with little security for the future.

I discovered the Mahoneys through my father, John Carroll, a professor at the University of New Hampshire who has written several books about New England farming. I decided to spend a year documenting the Mahoneys lives at Brookford Farm because they are not only new to farming but also run a biologically diverse farm and organic dairy. Before long I found myself filming at the breakfast table, riding in the tractor, slogging through cow pastures, attending business meetings and farmer’s markets, and hanging out in the pasture with the cows well before dawn. I learned the dedication it takes to farm and how the rigorous labor of each day is always interrupted by an inevitable drama such as animals breaking out or tractors dying or storms approaching. For a filmmaker the tensions of life on a farm are exciting and unexpected.

Every documentary filmmaker starts out with one idea for their film and watches that idea ebb and flow as life unfolds in front of the camera. When I began, I envisioned Brookford Almanac as a celebratory portrait of a year in the life of a farm family. At that time, I could not have predicted the changes that would take place both on the farm and in my film. Luke and Catarina have expanded their operation considerably. With this expansion has come problems with their landlord, a strong-willed, retired farmer who holds different opinions as to how things should be done. Sadly, because of these divergent philosophies, the landlord has decided not to renew the Mahoneys’ lease.

The issue of land access – something almost all first-generation farmers struggle with – is now no longer just a looming issue for Luke and Catarina; it is a harsh reality in their lives and it has come front and center in my film. The making of Brookford Almanac continues as I film life at Brookford Farm for a second farming season.

To continue this second year of production I am raising money through Kickstarter, a popular online crowd-funding tool. To learn more about the film and to join the production, please visit my Kickstarter page by clicking here below by April 30th.

_________________

Cozette Russell is a documentary filmmaker. She is currently a fellow at Harvard University’s Film Study Center, and she lives with her husband and creative partner Julian Russell in Lee, New Hampshire.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 24, 2011

Published by Sunday, April 24, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

“…there is a difficulty in bringing to life in one’s own kitchen the memories of gastronomic travels.  Most of us do not wish to eat at home as we do in restaurants, nor would we want to cook like expert chefs  every day even if we knew how.”–Narcisse Chamberlain and Narcissa G. Chamberlain, The Flavor of France in Recipes & Pictures

The Rambling Epicure. Editor, Jonell Galloway. Simon Says, Simon de Swaan

Narcisse Chamberlain was the daughter of cookbook writers Samuel and Narcissa G. Chamberlain. Her father, Samuel, was one of the founders of Gourmet Magazine, and along with his wife and daughter, teamed up to help make French food accessible to American homes in the 1950s and 60s.  Narcisse Chamberlain’s books and papers can be found at the Schlesinger Library at Harvard University.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Passover: the “festival of the unleavened bread”

Published by Friday, April 22, 2011 Permalink 0

This article is currently being translated into English.

par Julien Darmon

Extrait du Dictionnaire Universel du Pain, publié par Bouquins, Robert Laffont

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 21, 2011

Published by Thursday, April 21, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Grimod de la Reynière drank Swiss absinthe with foie gras, but warned: . . . nothing surpasses an excellent pâté de foie gras: they have killed more gourmands than the plague.–Ben Schott, Schott’s Food & Drink Miscellany

Ben Schott, born in 1974, is an author and curator of knowledge.  He can be found on his own website and on twitter @benschott.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

The Revolution of French Bread Baking (part 2)

Published by Wednesday, April 20, 2011 Permalink 0

Dictionnaire Universel du Painby Jean-Philippe de Tonnac

translated and adapted by Jonell Galloway

Cliquez ici pour la version française

Franck Debieu, a guiding light in the French bread revolution?

French bread baking is quietly but surely undergoing a revolution. It is adapting to today’s changing world. And like the European Renaissance, it is, surprisingly, rediscovering its origins, its long history of tradition, and reinventing them in light of scientific discoveries and expertise, which have allowed bakers to know more about the wheat, leavening, salt and water they use to produce their works of art. They are trying to revitalize their production and sales teams. L’Etoile du Berger bakery in Sceaux, just south of Paris, is unquestionably the greatest innovator in this revitalization.

Franck Debieu, the mastermind behind l’Etoile du Berger, looks as if he just stepped out of a Fragonard painting. The mildest of manner, matched with the strictest of standards. “Matchmaking” is his obsession. This business-minded bread baker is brimming with resourcefulness. His intelligence covers all territories: from the most basic raw materials to sensitivity to the human element. This discerning approach to bread baking certainly has its place in a French society totally caught up in a phase of decomposition and recomposition. Intuitiveness, audacity, business sense: all necessary to confront the task at hand.

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

UA-21892701-1