What to Eat in Switzerland: A Geneva Christmas: Longeole Sausage

Published by Friday, December 21, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

From the archives

Christmas traditions in Switzerland

One should never think that everybody in Switzerland eats the same thing for Christmas dinner. With four languages and a multitude of “mini-cultures” tucked away its various mountain niches, and with a huge international population, Switzerland may well have more Christmas menus than any other country in the world.

In the French-speaking part of Switzerland, Geneva’s traditions are quite apart from the Vaud, for example, due to the late date Geneva finally decided to become part of Switzerland. Geneva traditions are often more influenced by their Savoyard and French neighbors, since they share about 100 km of border with them and only 5 km with canton Vaud.

What’s so special about a Longeole?

Many Genevois eat a sausage specific to Geneva called longeole. Every region and many villages have their own sausage recipes, but the longeole is quite apart from the others for several reasons.

 

Longeole sausage and potatoes cooked in
white wine, a Geneva Christmas specialty.

 

For one thing, it contains not only ground pork but also ground pork rind. This keeps it from drying out and gives it fuller flavor. The other, and quite major, difference is that that it is speckled with fennel seeds, probably a Savoyard influence.

Any good local butcher makes his own longeole. If not, it is advisable to find one who does. It’s Christmas, so you want to be certain it’s of good quality.

Cooking Longeole

Longeole is easy to cook, but you must allow yourself enough time. It takes longer to cook than other cooking sausages because of the addition of the pork rind, which is harder than simple ground pork.

Use a soup pot tall enough to hold your sausage. Fill with water and bring water to boil. Add a touch of salt. Drop in sausage, lower heat, and let it simmer for 2 hours 45 minutes or 3 hours. The water should be just on the verge of boiling during the whole cooking time. It is then ready to slice and eat.

Some cooks prick the Longeole with a fork before cooking, but purist that I am, I think you risk losing some of the juices, which would take away from the flavor and make the sausage less succulent in the mouth. It is also important not to let it boil, because this too will dry it out.

What do Genevois eat with Longeole?

Like everywhere, different families have different traditions, different favorites, but the most common accompaniments are potatoes cooked in white wine, lentil stew and cardoon gratin, all Geneva specialties as well.

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What to Eat in Switzerland: A Geneva Christmas: White Wine Potatoes

Published by Friday, December 21, 2012 Permalink 0

A Geneva Christmas: White Wine Potatoes Recipe

by Jonell Galloway

From the archives

English: Jet d'Eau, Geneva

In A Geneva Christmas: Longeole sausage, I think I got your mouth watering talking about longeole, or fennel seed sausage. But did you see the potatoes in the photo? That’s THE essential side dish: potatoes cooked in broth and white wine.

I translated and adapted this recipe from A la mode de chez nous, Plaisirs de la table romande, a book on cooking in French-speaking Switzerland, by M. Vidoudez and J. Grangier.

Recipe

A Geneva Christmas-white wine potatoes-Longeole-recipe-Switzerland-the rambling epicure-jonell galloway-genevalunch-traditional dish

Longeole sausage served with
potatoes cooked in white wine and broth

Ingredients

1 kg / 2.2 lbs type 2 all-purpose potatoes
Olive oil, just enough to lightly coat potatoes
1 tablespoon spelt flour (farine d’épeautre), or otherwise whole wheat
240 ml / 1 cup chicken broth
1 onion, diced
1 laurel leaf
3 whole cloves
300 ml / 1 1/4 cup dry white wine
1 bouquet garni
Fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Fennel-flavored Longeole sausages for Christmas, made by Jacky Bula butcher in Geneva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  1. Scrub potatoes. If you really don’t like potato peels, or your potatoes have lots of black spots on them, peel them. Just remember: all the fiber and vitamins are in the peel.
  2. Chop potatoes into large cubes. Put potatoes in a large saucepan. Coat lightly with olive oil and mix well.
  3. Sautée for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
  4. Heat broth. Pour hot broth over potatoes. Add chopped onion, laurel, cloves, salt, pepper and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil. Cover, then lower heat and let it boil gently.
  5. Cook until potatoes are soft, about 15 or 20 minutes, depending on the kind of potato and the kind of pan.
  6. While the potatoes are cooking, mix flour and olive oil in a small utility bowl, until it becomes a smooth paste. Add a couple tablespoons of the hot broth from the potatoes to paste, and beat with wire whip until smooth.
  7. Add paste to potatoes, and beat gently with a wire whip. When smooth, add white wine.
  8. Continue cooking, stirring often so that it doesn’t stick, and gently boiling until the sauce starts to thicken.
  9. Taste. Add salt and pepper if required.
  10. Sprinkle with chopped parsley when serving. Traditionally, in Geneva this is served with longeole sausage at Christmas, but it goes well with many dishes, for example a smoked cooking sausage from the canton of Vaud.

Cooking notes:  I use a Kuhn Rikon Durotherm to maintain the vitamins and decrease cooking time. This also allows you to use less liquid, which gives a more intense flavor. In this case, you would use just enough broth to cover the potatoes.

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Food Art: A Swiss Food Experience, food photography by Jenn Oliver

Published by Friday, October 5, 2012 Permalink 0

Take a look at this lovely slide show!

The culinary experiences of our Culinary Chemist Jenn Oliver as she travels around Switzerland: a photo exhibit slide show.

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MarketDay: Swiss Farmers Market, Late August

Published by Tuesday, September 4, 2012 Permalink 0

Take a walk through the late August farmers market in Switzerland with Jonell Galloway.

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Switzerland: Best Source of Tomatoes in Lake Geneva/France Region

Published by Monday, August 13, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Sandrine and Olivier Chapuis
1037 route des Mermes
74140 Veigy-Foncenex
Tel. +33 (0)4 50 94 84 09

Sandrine and Olivier Chapuis in Veigy-Foncenex in France are the great specialists of juicy, full-flavored tomatoes in the Geneva area. They grow between 20 and 30 different varieties every year. There are yellow, orange, green, tiger stripe, red: a cornucopia of color and as sweet as fruit (of course they are fruit, technically speaking).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The market is flowing with oodles of summer vegetables.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Chapuis also have the widest range of wild greens and mescluns I’ve seen in Geneva.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can also buy directly from them in Veigy-Foncenex, but Sandrine prefers that you call beforehand because she is not always there. After all farmers have to work in the fields sometimes!

They produce all the produce they sell in the farmers market, so you can be sure that is both fresh and local. Sandrine, or “Sabi,” as she is nicknamed, has lots of great recipes in her head for every product she sells.

Since their fields are scattered out in various places, she prefers customers to tell her what they want, and she will have it ready for them when they come to pick it up. The best time is Tuesday or Friday between 4 and 8, or any other evening on appointment. The Chapuis are trying to set up a system for opening every evening, but are awaiting authorization from city authorities regarding parking, since they are right off the route nationale.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Food Art: This Side of the Matterhorn: Valais apricots, by Jenn Oliver

Published by Thursday, July 19, 2012 Permalink 0
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Rosa’s Musings: In Sync with the Seasons: Baked Apricots Stuffed with Almond Paste

Published by Tuesday, July 17, 2012 Permalink 0

by Rosa Mayland

INCREASE YOUR GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE BY EATING IN SYNC WITH THE SEASONS

Baked Apricots 2 bis The Rambling Epicure Rosa's Musings Rosa Mayland

With the arrival of hotter weather, I am thrilled that some of my favorite fruits are starting to grace (super)market stalls. They are so fabulous that I can never get enough of them. Not one week goes by without me making either pies, pastries, cakes, trifles, crumbles, clafoutis or cobblers in my itsy-bitsy apartment kitchen.

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Switzerland: Cucumber and Tarragon Salad Recipe

Published by Monday, July 16, 2012 Permalink 0

Jonell Galloway, Editor, The Rambling EpicureSwitzerland: Cucumber and Tarragon Salad Recipe

by Jonell Galloway

Spontaneous Cuisine: A Swiss Recipe

When the days are hot and sultry, few things can be as refreshing as a cold cucumber salad, especially this classic cucumber and tarragon salad. In Switzerland, we make it with sour cream and tarragon, while in France they cook the cucumbers slightly and then add crème fraîche and chives.

This salad goes perfectly with a grilled chicken breast or any white fish. It also goes perfectly with smoked or natural salmon, in which case you might want to replace the tarragon with fresh dill or dill seeds.

 

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Switzerland: Summer in Geneva

Published by Saturday, July 14, 2012 Permalink 0


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by Jonell Galloway

OUR LATEST DISCOVERY

Hotel Intercontinental Geneva Pool and Poolside Restaurant

Every weekend the Hotel Intercontinental Geneva opens its large outdoor swimming pool to the public. The poolside restaurant serves light, healthy, inventive dishes, such as vegetable tempura (shown below) and mezzes, as well as healthy drinks such as the Detox Smoothie (shown below). They use local and Swiss ingredients as much as possible, buying them directly from farmers and producers and working in close conjunction with OPAGE, the Geneva cantonal promoters for agriculture, so the vegetables and fruit are of a surprising freshness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The price is 50 CHF for the entire day during the week, and 90 CHF on weekends. It is best to reserve ahead, since on nice sunny days people head for the lake or pools, and Geneva is lacking in large outdoor pools. The spa is right next door and poolsiders, and it is also available pool guests.

 

 

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Food Art: Chocolate Hunting Dress, Salon du Chocolat Zurich, Switzerland

Published by Monday, April 2, 2012 Permalink 0
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