What to Eat in Switzerland: A Geneva Christmas: White Wine Potatoes

Published by Friday, December 21, 2012 Permalink 0

A Geneva Christmas: White Wine Potatoes Recipe

by Jonell Galloway

From the archives

English: Jet d'Eau, Geneva

In A Geneva Christmas: Longeole sausage, I think I got your mouth watering talking about longeole, or fennel seed sausage. But did you see the potatoes in the photo? That’s THE essential side dish: potatoes cooked in broth and white wine.

I translated and adapted this recipe from A la mode de chez nous, Plaisirs de la table romande, a book on cooking in French-speaking Switzerland, by M. Vidoudez and J. Grangier.

Recipe

A Geneva Christmas-white wine potatoes-Longeole-recipe-Switzerland-the rambling epicure-jonell galloway-genevalunch-traditional dish

Longeole sausage served with
potatoes cooked in white wine and broth

Ingredients

1 kg / 2.2 lbs type 2 all-purpose potatoes
Olive oil, just enough to lightly coat potatoes
1 tablespoon spelt flour (farine d’épeautre), or otherwise whole wheat
240 ml / 1 cup chicken broth
1 onion, diced
1 laurel leaf
3 whole cloves
300 ml / 1 1/4 cup dry white wine
1 bouquet garni
Fresh parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Fennel-flavored Longeole sausages for Christmas, made by Jacky Bula butcher in Geneva

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  1. Scrub potatoes. If you really don’t like potato peels, or your potatoes have lots of black spots on them, peel them. Just remember: all the fiber and vitamins are in the peel.
  2. Chop potatoes into large cubes. Put potatoes in a large saucepan. Coat lightly with olive oil and mix well.
  3. Sautée for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
  4. Heat broth. Pour hot broth over potatoes. Add chopped onion, laurel, cloves, salt, pepper and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil. Cover, then lower heat and let it boil gently.
  5. Cook until potatoes are soft, about 15 or 20 minutes, depending on the kind of potato and the kind of pan.
  6. While the potatoes are cooking, mix flour and olive oil in a small utility bowl, until it becomes a smooth paste. Add a couple tablespoons of the hot broth from the potatoes to paste, and beat with wire whip until smooth.
  7. Add paste to potatoes, and beat gently with a wire whip. When smooth, add white wine.
  8. Continue cooking, stirring often so that it doesn’t stick, and gently boiling until the sauce starts to thicken.
  9. Taste. Add salt and pepper if required.
  10. Sprinkle with chopped parsley when serving. Traditionally, in Geneva this is served with longeole sausage at Christmas, but it goes well with many dishes, for example a smoked cooking sausage from the canton of Vaud.

Cooking notes:  I use a Kuhn Rikon Durotherm to maintain the vitamins and decrease cooking time. This also allows you to use less liquid, which gives a more intense flavor. In this case, you would use just enough broth to cover the potatoes.

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What to Eat in Switzerland: A Geneva Christmas: Cardoon Gratin Recipe

Published by Wednesday, December 19, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

From the archives

 

Cardoon gratin is a classic Geneva Christmas dish, but only brave souls should try to prepare them because they are prickly, and the preparation can be long and tedious. Many farmers markets in Switzerland now sell them prepared sous vide, in plastic vacuum-packed packages, which is probably the best option for those who don’t get a thrill out of getting a few pricks. In any case, it is important to schedule it carefully into your meal preparations, because it is time-consuming any way you go about it.

Cardoon Gratin Recipe

Preparation of Cardoons for Gratin

  1. Throw out any hard stems and any that are wilted.
  2. Peel the cardoons by removing leaves, spines and stringy parts. The exterior will then be covered with a fuzzy layer. Use a cloth to rub stalks gently to remove fuzz.
  3. Cut stems into 8 cm (3 cm) slices. Rub with lemon, or if you intend to use them later, put slices into lemon water so they won’t turn dark.
  4. You now have two choices: you can either cook them in a white vegetable broth you’ve made ahead of time, or you can cook them in the lemon water you soaked them in.
  5. Bring to a boil and boil until tender. It should take about 30 minutes for them to become tender, but if they are larger in diameter it can take up to 2 hours, so allow plenty of time.

Recipe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All these steps can be carried out while the cardoons are cooking. There are actually several ways of doing this. You can either make a Béchamel (white) sauce and sprinkle cheese on the cardoons before you put them in the oven, or you can make a Mornay (cheese) sauce and pour it on the cooked cardoons before putting in the oven to brown. I think it’s tastier to make a Mornay sauce, and then sprinkle a bit of cheese on the top before putting it in the oven. Here’s my recipe.

Ingredients

Click here for British/American/metric recipe converter

Approximately 1 kg of cardoons
30 g of butter
1 tablespoon of flour
2.5 dl of whole milk
1 dl of cream
50 g of cheese, type Gruyère or Swiss (see photo below), grated
Lemon juice, freshly squeezed
Salt and pepper to taste
 

Emmentaler (also known as Swiss Cheese), while...

 

DIRECTIONS

  1. Make a Béchamel sauce, using the proportions of ingredients above.
  2. When finished and seasoned, add cream and cheese, setting aside a tablespoon of cheese. Set aside.
  3. Preheat oven to 250° C.
  4. Once cardoons are tender, drain, making sure all water is drained off.
  5. In a large bowl, mix cooked cardoons and Mornay sauce.
  6. Pour into a baking dish of the appropriate size, so that there is a layer of about 3 cm high.
  7. Sprinkle evenly with remaining grated cheese and a few knobs of butter.
  8. Put in hot oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Notes: It is important to use a hard, Swiss-type cheese. Cheddar cheese would have too strong of a taste. If you can’t find cardoons, the same recipe can be made with Swiss chard, thus eliminating the long, meticulous preparation. Simply cut them as for the cardoons and cook in chicken broth until tender, then follow the other steps in the recipe for making the gratin. Its texture is quite similar to that of cardoons.

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Switzerland: Fresh Fruit Séré/Quark Cheese Mousse

Published by Wednesday, August 1, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

In Switzerland, séré, as it is called in the French-speaking part of the country, or quark, as it is called in the German-speaking part, is a fresh cheese similar to curd cheese or cottage cheese and to ricotta, but the process of making it differs somewhat. Milk is first soured, then warmed until the desired degree of denaturation of milk proteins is met. It is then strained, so that it is smooth in consistency.

It is good eaten simply, with fresh fruit and a touch of sugar, but it can also be used for cooking.

When summer fruit is so abundant, this fresh fruit mousse makes for a different way of eating it.

You can buy either the full-fat version or a low-fat one. The full-fat version will be marked séré de crème in supermarkets; the full-fat version will be marked séré maigre or quark “maigre,” meaning low-fat. For this recipe, it’s best to buy it homemade from the cheesemonger or the full-fat version.

If séré is not available in your area, follow this easy recipe to make it yourself.

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Switzerland: Cucumber and Tarragon Salad Recipe

Published by Monday, July 16, 2012 Permalink 0

Jonell Galloway, Editor, The Rambling EpicureSwitzerland: Cucumber and Tarragon Salad Recipe

by Jonell Galloway

Spontaneous Cuisine: A Swiss Recipe

When the days are hot and sultry, few things can be as refreshing as a cold cucumber salad, especially this classic cucumber and tarragon salad. In Switzerland, we make it with sour cream and tarragon, while in France they cook the cucumbers slightly and then add crème fraîche and chives.

This salad goes perfectly with a grilled chicken breast or any white fish. It also goes perfectly with smoked or natural salmon, in which case you might want to replace the tarragon with fresh dill or dill seeds.

 

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Spontaneous Cuisine: Lacquered Pork Tenderloin, Roast Potatoes, Ramp/Ramson Recipe

Published by Tuesday, April 17, 2012 Permalink 0

From the archives

Lacquered Pork Tenderloin, Roast Potatoes & Ramson Recipe

by Jonell Galloway

Ramson and wild garlic leaves, as we call them in Switzerland, are in season, so now is the perfect time to make this recipe. The season doesn’t last long, so don’t tarry. If you don’t have ramson, or Allium ursinum,  in your area, try ramps or Allium tricoccum, which will produce a similar taste.

The sweetness of the lacquer and the tart acidity of the ramps give this recipe a lovely balance of opposing flavors. The roast potatoes serve as a neutral taste that makes the contrasts less shocking.

 

Spontaneous Cuisine: Lacquered Pork Tenderloin, Roast potatoes & Ramps Recipe

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Spontaneous Cuisine: Scallops, Green Asparagus and Strawberry Balsamic Sauce Recipe

Published by Friday, April 13, 2012 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

 
From the archives
 

Spontaneous Cuisine: Scallops, Green Asparagus and Strawberry Balsamic Sauce Recipe

This is another low-fat, high-fiber meal that fits perfectly in to any weight loss plan. All these ingredients are available as of late April in Switzerland.

 

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French Food Fact: What is the true meaning of the word “fondue”?

Published by Saturday, November 19, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

For most of us, the word “fondue” conjures up images of poking those long skinny forks into a piece of bread and dipping it into a Swiss-style melted cheese fondue on the table in front of us, while sitting in a rustic chalet in the mountains with a beautiful view out over the mountains. Fondue certainly can mean that, but it doesn’t always.

 

The word literally means “melted” in French and should, if all be told, be used as an adjective. Although the name has been twisted a bit from the original meaning over the years, it still strongly retains traces of the original meaning, since it always includes the sense of something solid like cheese or chocolate melting into a sauce or pulp. The one exception to this is Burgundy fondue, which is basically like a smaller version of the medieval boiling pot of oil that was poured over the heads of invaders, and if spilled on you, it may not kill you, but it is highly possible it will leave you with lifetime scars.

The original fondue originated in Switzerland, and consists of a cheese sauce made with cheese, corn flour, kirsch, garlic and sometimes flavorings, such as wild mushrooms, tomatoes, shallots, depending on the canton.

Eighteenth-century French gastronome Brillat-Savarin also used the term in his Physiologie du goût, or Physiology of Taste, considered one of the great classics of all time on French cuisine. His fondue consisted of scrambled eggs and cheese, and the cheese was melted.

Many vegetable preparations also go by the name fondue. When vegetables are cooked slowly in fat for a very long time, they eventually start to “melt” and form a pulp. They can then be used to make sauces or as constituent elements in other dishes, for example fondue of carrots or fondue of onions.

 

 
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The Many Faces of Swiss Fondue and Chasselas wine

Published by Friday, October 14, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The word “fondue” means literally “melted” in French. In Switzerland, fondue is made by melting cheese with white wine, pepper, garlic and kirsch (cherry schnapps).

Photo courtesy of Fribourg Tourist Bureau.

Different regions use different cheeses and have different recipes however. In the canton of Valais, no starch, butter, or eggs are added, while in many other regions they are used for thickening. Today, many people use corn starch.

Fribourg fondue is different from other cantons in that it uses Fribourg Vacherin cheese. Both Gruyère and Fribourg make what is referred to as “half and half”, meaning they use half Gruyère and half Fribourg Vacherin cheese.In central Switzerland, it is common to use Gruyère, Emmental and Sbrinz, a hard cheese from central Switzerland that is claimed to be the oldest cheese in Europe.

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Switzerland: Filet of Perch with Parsley/chive Sauce Recipe

Published by Thursday, August 25, 2011 Permalink 1

 

Spontaneous Cuisine, by Jonell Galloway

Traditional dish in Lake Geneva region: filet of perch with parsley, chives and butter: a recipe with a twist

Recipe

Ingredients

1 kg / 2.2 lbs of filet of perch
1.2 dl / 1/2 cup of white wine
125 g / 1 stick butter
1 large clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons of strong mustard
2 egg yolks
Parsley, 1 large bunch
Chives, 1 large bunch
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 220°C / 425°F.
  2. Butter a baking dish that can also be used on stovetop. Add wine and garlic.
  3. Arrange filets in a baking dish. Salt and pepper.
  4. Bake for about 8 minutes or until fish is cooked but still firm. Carefully remove fish and set it aside.
  5. Use cooking juices in baking dish to make sauce. Add butter, mustard and egg yolk.
  6. Cook over very low heat, stirring constantly with a wire whip. Add parsley. Warning: If you turn the heat too high and quite stirring, you will end up with scrambled eggs instead of sauce!
  7. Arrange perch on serving plates, preferably warm. Pour sauce over fish and serve immediately.

 

 

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Switzerland: Pan-fried Sérac Cheese & Potato Salad Recipe

Published by Friday, August 5, 2011 Permalink 0

Spontaneous Cuisine, by Jonell Galloway

Swiss Sérac cheese, a fresh cow’s milk cheese made with whey

Whey cheese is produced when the curds are separated from the whey to make cheese. Ricotta is also a whey cheese, but unlike Sérac, it is often made with sheep’s milk. As a result, you can use your local cheesemonger’s Sérac in most recipes that call for ricotta.

Photo courtesy of FribourgRegion tourist office.

Photo courtesy of Fribourg Region tourist office.

 

Sérac is made in most regions of Switzerland, and each region has its own version. Some regions smoke it; others flavor it with herbs, spices or pepper.

Sérac cheese is soft and creamy in texture, so it is easy to spread it on bread to make a healthy sandwich or snack, but Sérac is not only a snack cheese. It can also be used to make healthy, quick meals, such as the recipe below. In the summertime, I often use it like mozzarella, with tomatoes and basil or other Italian-inspired recipes.

It is a great way of teaching your children to eat healthy snacks. Top it with fresh fruit to make a healthy, low-fat dessert, or use it for between-meal snacks on chunky whole-grain bread.

Since it is a fresh milk cheese, it does not keep, and should be eaten shortly after purchasing. Because it is made from fresh milk whey, it is also naturally low in fat. In Switzerland, it would have about a 3.8% fat content, the same as milk.

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