David Downie: Feature Article on Emilia in The Italy Issue of this Month’s Bon Appetit magazine.

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by David Downie, France/Italy correspondent for The Rambling Epicure

Never a dull moment: I’m packing to leave Paris to go on book tour for Paris, Paris: Journey into the City of Light and Quiet Corners of Rome…and my lead feature for the May issue of Bon Appetit has already hit the stands… and the Internet. Here‘s an excerpt from The Italy Issue, as they are calling it. The story has many parts, with addresses and recipes listed separately.

The photo that doesn’t appear in the story: yours truly making tortellini at the big annual Sagra del Tortellino festival in Castelfranco-Emilia, near Bologna.

Buon appetito! Or perhaps it should be Bon Appetit?

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Market Analysis: Organic Food from Supermarket vs. Straight from the Producer

Published by Thursday, April 28, 2011 Permalink 0

by Eric Burkel

Don’t allow the wool to be pulled over your eyes by supermarket organic food!

While discussing the issue of sustainable agriculture and the virtuous model of direct-channel (straight from the producer) with a friend the other day, she told me proudly that she usually buys organic food at her supermarket.

It made me think that most of us do the same and therefore we are content in the knowledge that we have most duly earned some sacrosanct “organic” brownie points!

However, it is a pact with the devil for dupes, when you boil it down. In a direct-channel model, whereby middlemen are cut out, the producer/breeder/grower gets decent compensation for his or her efforts. In a supermarket chain, the same “squeeze-the-supplier-till-he-squeals (or dies!)” modus operandi applies. How else can you explain that the major chains in France are offering organic deals at 1 € a day, for instance?

Organic growing is inherently risky and mechanically more expensive than intensively grown food. Weeds? They have to be pulled out by hand, not sprayed with the latest and greatest herbicide. Bugs? You can’t just spray the nasty freeloaders with a new-fangled pesticide.

When I asked our favourite organic Bordeaux wine-grower if he had sold out of his 2007 production (there was none to be found on his price list), he responded matter-of-factly: “We had a fungus that year and lost our whole crop.” You can imagine that it would have been soooooo much easier to spray some fungicide and make it all go away.

After factoring in such vagaries of organic farm life (without forgetting that yields are invariably lower on organic farms), someone needs to explain how in an ideal world you can have the cut-price organic prices we see in commercials all the time. Unless of course, someone is still getting shrift in the loop, as is often par for the course in our zero-sum world.

Some supermarket chains have understood the nuance and are trumpeting their programs to promote “local” procurement. This is a step in the right direction, no doubt.

So great, the chains have brought organic food to forefront our collective conscious and that must be goodness. But we must keep them on their toes to ensure that they are not just surfing the latest fad and using it their sole advantage, to sucker us once again.

Or better yet, go out of our way and support the direct-channel by joining a CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture) or buying directly from local producers.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

MarketDay: Everything You Need to Know About Indian Mangoes

Published by Wednesday, April 27, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Indian Mangoes: Alphonso, Alphonso!

Indian mangoes are in season from March to May. They are the ugliest mangoes around, but for me, there is no question they are the best. Not surprising, since mangoes come from India in the first place. They have an almost spicy taste that nicely compliments the sweetness.

Indian mangoes may be the ugliest ones, but they are the tastiest!

How to choose a mango

Indian mangoes often look bruised and half-rotten compared to other varieties when in fact they are at their very best. All you have to do is feel them to check how ripe they are. They should be slightly soft and smell full and fruity.

I buy them by the carton in Geneva’s Boulevard Helvétique market, or from Indian supermarkets. It’s all right to buy some that are not quite ripe so that you can eat them over a period of several days, or use some of them in green mango recipes. Indian mangoes ripen better off the tree than other varieties.

Mango shelf life

Mangoes keep well in the refrigerator for a week and often even two. Don’t put them in plastic. Leave them loose in the fruit bin or in the carton if you’ve bought a whole carton.

If they’re not ripe enough, put them in a paper bag and leave them at room temperature until they’re ready, just like for avocados.

India is the largest producer of mangoes in the world, with 2,143,000 hectares harvested, according to the Wikipedia. Indians eat them both ripe and green, rather like papayas, and like papayas, they contain an enzyme that aids digestion.

A single mango can contain up to 40% of the fiber you need daily, and is full of antioxidants and potassium.

How to eat a mango

Mango as a fruit on its own

The “How to Eat a Mango” section on the freshmangoes site explains step by step with illustrations for cutting and eating.

Mango as an accompaniment to a meal or a condiment

Mango chutney is good with fish, and makes a simple, healthy meal when served with Basmati rice. Green mango sauce is an easy way to liven up a piece of grilled meat or chicken. The freshmangoes site gives recipes of every imaginable type.

And of course, what is more delightful than a fresh, ripe mango to clean your palate and help you digest after a big meal.

If mangoes are your favorite fruit, and you think you can’t live without them (which is my case), Jonathan Allen’s article in the New York Times is a must.

The Buddha supposedly lived under a mango tree, and above all, this “king of fruits,” as it is often referred to, is associated with “abundance, joyousness and the carefree innocence of childhood,” says T.S. Satyan. I remember the first time I ever tasted mango juice, as they call it in India (it’s actually just puréed mango). I certainly felt enlightened!

A version of this article was originally published on GenevaLunch.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Simon Says: Daily Food Quote, April 26, 2011

Published by Tuesday, April 26, 2011 Permalink 0

by Simón de Swaan

Cooking is a test without paper, the questions, or the answers, in the sense that you, the cook, are constantly trying to please a disparate bunch of people, who most often, being family, will not hold back on the criticism.–Tamasin Day-Lewis, Good Tempered Food

Tamasin Day-Lewis is an English television chef, daughter of the poet laureate Cecil Day-Lewis and actress Jill Balcon, and sister of the actor Daniel Day-Lewis.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Passover: the “festival of the unleavened bread”

Published by Friday, April 22, 2011 Permalink 0

This article is currently being translated into English.

par Julien Darmon

Extrait du Dictionnaire Universel du Pain, publié par Bouquins, Robert Laffont

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Switzerland: In Geneva, no shortage of chocolate Easter bunnies

Published by Thursday, April 21, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

The best chocolate is indisputably to be found in Switzerland, and despite the much talked-about cocoa shortages, I would guess Geneva still has the highest concentration of high-quality, original Easter chocolates, so I thought I’d give you a little help in finding the perfect chocolate for your needs.

There is much discussion among natives of Geneva as to which is best, but purist that I am, no matter how many chocolate shops I try, I always come back to the same one: Chocolaterie Auer, located downtown in the main tram street.

They offer the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate bunnies and eggs, and even if their creations are perhaps not as aesthetically original as some others, the quality of the chocolate cannot be rivaled. There’s nothing like chocolate made straight from the bean. Industrial cocoa powder just doesn’t cut it in my book.

(While you’re buying your gifts, you might want to pick up one of their divine chocolate macaroons and a package of their not-so-fattening chocolate-covered almonds for yourself …)

Nearby, Chocolats Rohr produces some smashingly beautiful Easter bunnies and eggs made of top-quality chocolate.

La Bonbonnière, across from the Fnac, also does good-quality chocolate “works of art”, including chocolate fountains and a wide range of Easter themes. Their chocolate pignons are as light as angel wings.

At the other end of the street, Gilles Desplanches offers a wide variety of original figures and mixtures of flavors, as well as the traditional dark, milk and white chocolate, with an extended range of eggs (some topped with dinosaurs and other interesting figures that children will love), as well as bunnies, fish, chicks, etc.

When I discovered Chocolaterie-Confiserie Christophe Berger a few years ago, the man took my heart away. He’s always coming up with new combinations: dark chocolate with figs or slivers of crunchy candied ginger; every visit brings another surprise. For Easter, he keeps to the traditional, but then Easter is a traditional occasion, isn’t it? His pastries and cakes are also of excellent quality and really worth a try, although since the shop is small, he can’t keep many in stock, so it’s best to order a few days ahead of time. And please don’t let the shabby awning put you off. There’s nothing shabby about his products!

Today I tasted a single piece of dark chocolate from Les Ephémères in Lausanne and would like to taste more. Their website shows some exquisite fine-lace chocolate eggs, some highly original flavored truffles, including absinthe and ginger, wild strawberry, and coconut and vanilla, as well as organic chocolate. This is definitely a place to check out. The organic chocolate is also available at Bio Servette in Geneva.

If you’re buying gifts for adults, you may want to steer away from the bunnies and eggs. The After the Rain spa offers chocolate baths and wraps followed by a Turkish bath for couples. All year long, Gilles Desplanches’ chocolate bar proffers up rich hot chocolate that can rival Angelina’s in Paris, as well as cold chocolate. There’s a flavor for everyone because the choice is large: salted-butter caramel, white nougat, wild mint, coconut, amaretto, Cayenne pepper and Tabasco, orange and cinnamon. We’re not talking about powdered cocoa to which you add hot water, but the “black gold” variety.

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

The Revolution of French Bread Baking (part 2)

Published by Wednesday, April 20, 2011 Permalink 0

Dictionnaire Universel du Painby Jean-Philippe de Tonnac

translated and adapted by Jonell Galloway

Cliquez ici pour la version française

Franck Debieu, a guiding light in the French bread revolution?

French bread baking is quietly but surely undergoing a revolution. It is adapting to today’s changing world. And like the European Renaissance, it is, surprisingly, rediscovering its origins, its long history of tradition, and reinventing them in light of scientific discoveries and expertise, which have allowed bakers to know more about the wheat, leavening, salt and water they use to produce their works of art. They are trying to revitalize their production and sales teams. L’Etoile du Berger bakery in Sceaux, just south of Paris, is unquestionably the greatest innovator in this revitalization.

Franck Debieu, the mastermind behind l’Etoile du Berger, looks as if he just stepped out of a Fragonard painting. The mildest of manner, matched with the strictest of standards. “Matchmaking” is his obsession. This business-minded bread baker is brimming with resourcefulness. His intelligence covers all territories: from the most basic raw materials to sensitivity to the human element. This discerning approach to bread baking certainly has its place in a French society totally caught up in a phase of decomposition and recomposition. Intuitiveness, audacity, business sense: all necessary to confront the task at hand.

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

David Downie: Focaccia again, Santa Margherita Ligure

Published by Tuesday, April 19, 2011 Permalink 0
by David Downie

Santa Margherita Ligure is as famous for its frescoed buildings as for its focaccia, but since you can’t eat frescos, even though they look downright edible, the focaccia is what most visitors rightly remember (and the fish and pesto and other delicacies too). Though Recco is better known for focaccia, Santa, as the locals call this seaside resort, nonetheless has two top focaccia-makers. Only an expert would notice the slight difference in the quantity of olive oil and salt, or the size of the moonscape craters on the surface (bigger in Recco). One of the two bakers here goes out of his way to make sure the dough is slightly softer in the center than it is around the edges. That’s why connoisseurs order their slices accordingly.

Good luck finding theses bakeries: Fiordiponti is on a back road, Via Ruffini, on the Portofino-end of town, near the arcaded square called Piazza Fratelli Bandiera. Pinamonti is closer to the train station, down an alley near the Lido Hotel.

You can find more great food and wine addresses for this region in my book Food Wine: Italian Riviera Genoa.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Spontaneous Cuisine: Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote, It’s in Season!

Published by Monday, April 18, 2011 Permalink 0

by Jonell Galloway

Recipe: Strawberry-Rhubarb Compote

I always get really excited when the strawberries and rhubarb come on the market. For me it’s literally like “breaking news.” They’re really the first local fruit.

 

Photo courtesy of Happy Hoarfrost.

One of my favorite dishes is strawberry-rhubarb compote. It’s healthy, full of fiber and vitamins; it’s also versatile and can be used in many ways.

In addition, it’s about as easy as you can get.

Continue Reading…

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

Un boulanger ne fait pas le printemps mais y contribue (2)

Published by Friday, April 15, 2011 Permalink 0

Dictionnaire Universel du Painpar Jean-Philippe de Tonnac

Click here for English version

La révolution du Berger

La boulangerie française est en secrète révolution. Elle s’adapte à un monde qui change. Elle redécouvre avec étonnement son passé immémorial. Elle se réinvente à la lumière des expertises scientifiques qui lui font mieux connaître les blés, les ferments, le sel, l’eau avec lesquels elle travaille. Elle cherche à dynamiser ses équipes dédiées à la production et à la vente. C’est dans ce dernier secteur que l’Etoile du Berger innove résolument.

Franck Debieu, son créateur, donne l’impression de s’être échappé d’un tableau de Fragonard. Extrême douceur mariée à une exigence extrême. Les mariages, c’est son obsession. Les atouts de ce boulanger entrepreneur sont multiples. Intelligence des matières et des hommes. Sens de la boulangerie qui retrouve sa place dans une société française en totale dé/recomposition. Intuitions, audaces, sens du commerce. Il a voyagé pendant sept ans comme compagnon sur le Tour de France, puis comme expert auprès des boulangers dans le monde entier. Il a étudié différentes formes de levain, dont un levain liquide qui a fini par avoir sa préférence. Il a ouvert trois magasins à l’enseigne de l’Etoile du Berger à Sceaux, Fontenay aux Roses et Meudon, aux portes sud de la capitale, où il propose un pain qui tient les promesses qu’on avait placé dans ce compagnon boulanger.

L’Etoile désormais allumée au firmament de la boulangerie, Franck s’est attelé à cette tâche innovante et prometteuse : évaluer le potentiel exact d’une équipe de boulange(è)r(e)s – pâtissie(è)r(e)s aguerris, d’une part, d’une équipe de vendeu(r)s(es) d’autre part et imaginer entre l’une et l’autre des passerelles, des transferts, des complicités cachées. La boulangerie a commencé à se réinventer en France par les fournils, une fois libéré la force créatrice des artisans (libération des prix en 1987 et décret de la baguette de tradition française en 1993), mais elle est encore loin d’avoir traduit ces changements au niveau de la vente. Demeure une ligne Maginot entre le fournil et le magasin, traditionnellement entre le boulanger et son épouse, même si les protagonistes ont changé, les fonctions évolué.

La petite révolution de l’Etoile est donc d’inviter ceux qui produisent à vendre et ceux qui vendent à produire. Inacceptable, l’attitude du boulanger enfermé dans son fournil qui ne se soucie pas de ceux qui vont manger son pain. Inacceptable, l’attitude de la vendeuse qui annone sa leçon à propos du pain « sur levain liquide » et qui n’a jamais plongé ses mains dans l’onctueuse pétrissée durant ses longues heures de pointage. Si la vendeuse franchie les portes du fournil, enfile le tablier, inventorie les entrants de la recette dont elle ne connaît que le stade final (la « tourte du grenier », le « pavé du Berger », l’ « épeautre et graines de lin bio », le « torchon abricot », le « cœur de rêve », etc.), fait tourner le pétrin, façonne, enfourne, écoute la petite musique du ressuage, alors il y a une sorte de « déclic », une petite illumination, après quoi la vente n’aura plus jamais la même saveur. Ni le monde. Ces jours dans le fournil lui donnent des ailes. Même chose pour le mutique artisan qui montre le bout de son nez enfariné dans le magasin et découvre tout à trac ce que sont les mangeurs de pain. Bigre !

Ajoutez à ces roques, le sentiment partagé par quelques-uns dans la profession qu’il est temps de féminiser les fournils, à partir du moment où la mécanisation du process permet de solliciter musculairement les acteurs d’une manière plus yin. « Féminiser les fournils | masculiniser la vente » pourrait être le devise d’un Berger qui cherche à favoriser toutes les mobilités et partant, of course, la c.r.é.a.t.i.v.i.t.é.

Sabrina Tesan, responsable d’une équipe de vente et actuellement en formation pour passer son CAP de pâtissière : « Plus que tout, c’est de vivre ce rapport à la matière qui me donne du plaisir. » Stéphanie Jiménez King, responsable des ventes : « L’Etoile du Berger m’a permis de vivre une énorme évolution en commençant en tant qu’apprentie pour devenir responsable des ventes. L’Etoile n’est pas pour moi qu’une boulangerie de haute qualité. Elle est une école de la vie. » Mathieu Taillasson, responsable de site : « Le fait d’avoir suivi une formation en management m’a beaucoup apporté dans la gestion des relations humaines. » David Johanet, responsable pour les trois sites : « Le fait de devenir responsable boulanger de l’ensemble des sites m’a permis de développer mes compétences et ma capacité d’ouverture pour mieux écouter mes collaborateurs et ainsi mieux les épauler. J’ai aussi développé mon écoute pour comprendre les attentes des autres secteurs comme la vente, ce qui nous permet de mieux gérer l’organisation et l’humain. »

La réussite de Franck Debieu ne se qualifie pas seulement en terme de chiffre d’affaire. D’une manière qui saute aux yeux lorsqu’on découvre l’une de ses boulangeries, le pain fait chez lui des heureux de deux sortes : ceux qui le dégustent | ceux qui le font & le vendent. Un mariage, donc, entre le phalanstère et la libre entreprise, le muscle et le cœur, l’acidité (du levain) et la douceur.

Never miss a post
Name: 
Your email address:*
Please enter all required fields
Correct invalid entries

UA-21892701-1